That's what that workbench looked like last week (sunny & ~45*)
...& this week it's snowy & ~30*
'wittle 'wesistor (Mini Jeep)
For my next creation, I've been thinking about building a go kart sized jeep (mini-Jeep)
...but first, here is some Jeep info.
"The Jeep marque has been headquartered in Toledo, Ohio, ever since Willys–Overland launched production of the first CJ or Civilian Jeep branded models there in 1945. Its replacement, the conceptually consistent Jeep Wrangler series, remains in production since 1986. With its solid axles and open top, the Wrangler is the Jeep model that is central to the brand's identity.
At least two Jeep models (the CJ-5 and the SJ Wagoneer) enjoyed extraordinary three-decade production runs of a single body generation.
In lowercase, the term "jeep" continues to be used as a generic term for vehicles inspired by the Jeep that are suitable for use on rough terrain. In Iceland, the word Jeppi (derived from Jeep) has been used since WWII and is still used for any type of SUV.
Prior to 1940 the term "jeep" had been used as U.S. Army slang for new recruits or vehicles, but the World War II "jeep" that went into production in 1941 specifically tied the name to this light military 4x4, arguably making them the oldest four-wheel drive mass-production vehicles now known as SUVs. The Jeep became the primary light 4-wheel-drive vehicle of the United States Armed Forces and the Allies during World War II, as well as the postwar period. The term became common worldwide in the wake of the war. Doug Stewart noted: "The spartan, cramped, and unstintingly functional jeep became the ubiquitous World War II four-wheeled personification of Yankee ingenuity and cocky, can-do determination." It is the precursor of subsequent generations of military light utility vehicles such as the Humvee, and inspired the creation of civilian analogs such as the original Series I Land Rover. Many Jeep variants serving similar military and civilian roles have since been designed in other nations.
Development – 1. Bantam Reconnaissance Car
When it became clear that the United States would be involved in the European theater of World War II, the Army contacted 135 companies to create working prototypes of a four-wheel drive reconnaissance car. Only two companies responded: American Bantam Car Company and Willys-Overland. The Army set a seemingly impossible deadline of 49 days to supply a working prototype. Willys asked for more time, but was refused. American Bantam had only a small staff with nobody to draft the vehicle plans, so chief engineer Harold Crist hired Karl Probst, a talented freelance designer from Detroit. After turning down Bantam's initial request, Probst responded to an Army request and began work on July 17, 1940, initially without salary.
Probst drafted the full plans in just two days for the Bantam prototype known as the BRC or Bantam Reconnaissance Car, working up a cost estimate the next day. Bantam's bid was submitted on July 22, complete with blueprints. Much of the vehicle could be assembled from off-the-shelf automotive parts, and custom four-wheel drivetrain components were to be supplied by Spicer. The hand-built prototype was completed in Butler, Pennsylvania and driven to Camp Holabird, Maryland on September 23 for Army testing. The vehicle met all the Army's criteria except engine torque.
Development – 2. Willys and Ford
The Army thought that the Bantam company lacked the production capacity to manufacture and deliver the required number of vehicles, so it supplied the Bantam design to Willys and Ford, and encouraged them to enhance the design. The resulting Ford "Pygmy" and Willys "Quad" prototypes looked very similar to the Bantam BRC prototype, and Spicer supplied very similar four-wheel drivetrain components to all three manufacturers.
1,500 of each model (Bantam BRC-40, Ford GP, and Willys MA) were built and extensively field-tested. After the weight specification was revised, Willys-Overland's chief engineer Delmar "Barney" Roos modified the design in order to use Willys's heavy but powerful "Go Devil" engine, and won the initial production contract. The Willys version became the standard jeep design, designated the model MB, and was built at their plant in Toledo, Ohio. The familiar pressed-metal Jeep grille was a Ford design feature and incorporated in the final design by the Army.
Because the US War Department required a large number of vehicles in a short time, Willys-Overland granted the US Government a non-exclusive license to allow another company to manufacture vehicles using Willys' specifications. The Army chose Ford as a second supplier, building Jeeps to the Willys' design. Willys supplied Ford with a complete set of plans and specifications. American Bantam, the creators of the first Jeep, built approximately 2,700 of them to the BRC-40 design, but spent the rest of the war building heavy-duty trailers for the Army.
Final production version jeeps built by Willys-Overland were the Model MB, while those built by Ford were the Model GPW (G = government vehicle, P = 80" wheelbase, W = Willys engine design). There were subtle differences between the two. The versions produced by Ford had every component (including bolt heads) marked with an "F", and early on Ford also stamped their name in large letters in their trademark script, embossed in the rear panel of their jeeps. Willys followed the Ford pattern by stamping 'Willys' into several body parts, but the U.S. government objected to this practice, and both parties stopped this in 1942.
The cost per vehicle trended upwards as the war continued from the price under the first contract from Willys at US$648.74 (Ford's was $782.59 per unit). Willys-Overland and Ford, under the direction of Charles E. Sorensen (vice-president of Ford during World War II), produced about 640,000 Jeeps.
Jeeps were used by every service of the U.S. military. An average of 145 were supplied to every Army infantry regiment. Jeeps were used for many purposes, including cable laying, Sawmilling, as firefighting pumpers, field ambulances, tractors, and, with suitable wheels, would run on railway tracks."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep
I came across this drawing
...& it seemed like a pretty good guide
So, I'm thinking maybe ~50% should work for a mini jeep
...so, I'll just have to calculate a ~2:1 reduction
![Wheel Tire Wood Font Rectangle]()
...but first, here is some Jeep info.
"The Jeep marque has been headquartered in Toledo, Ohio, ever since Willys–Overland launched production of the first CJ or Civilian Jeep branded models there in 1945. Its replacement, the conceptually consistent Jeep Wrangler series, remains in production since 1986. With its solid axles and open top, the Wrangler is the Jeep model that is central to the brand's identity.
At least two Jeep models (the CJ-5 and the SJ Wagoneer) enjoyed extraordinary three-decade production runs of a single body generation.
In lowercase, the term "jeep" continues to be used as a generic term for vehicles inspired by the Jeep that are suitable for use on rough terrain. In Iceland, the word Jeppi (derived from Jeep) has been used since WWII and is still used for any type of SUV.
Prior to 1940 the term "jeep" had been used as U.S. Army slang for new recruits or vehicles, but the World War II "jeep" that went into production in 1941 specifically tied the name to this light military 4x4, arguably making them the oldest four-wheel drive mass-production vehicles now known as SUVs. The Jeep became the primary light 4-wheel-drive vehicle of the United States Armed Forces and the Allies during World War II, as well as the postwar period. The term became common worldwide in the wake of the war. Doug Stewart noted: "The spartan, cramped, and unstintingly functional jeep became the ubiquitous World War II four-wheeled personification of Yankee ingenuity and cocky, can-do determination." It is the precursor of subsequent generations of military light utility vehicles such as the Humvee, and inspired the creation of civilian analogs such as the original Series I Land Rover. Many Jeep variants serving similar military and civilian roles have since been designed in other nations.
Development – 1. Bantam Reconnaissance Car
When it became clear that the United States would be involved in the European theater of World War II, the Army contacted 135 companies to create working prototypes of a four-wheel drive reconnaissance car. Only two companies responded: American Bantam Car Company and Willys-Overland. The Army set a seemingly impossible deadline of 49 days to supply a working prototype. Willys asked for more time, but was refused. American Bantam had only a small staff with nobody to draft the vehicle plans, so chief engineer Harold Crist hired Karl Probst, a talented freelance designer from Detroit. After turning down Bantam's initial request, Probst responded to an Army request and began work on July 17, 1940, initially without salary.
Probst drafted the full plans in just two days for the Bantam prototype known as the BRC or Bantam Reconnaissance Car, working up a cost estimate the next day. Bantam's bid was submitted on July 22, complete with blueprints. Much of the vehicle could be assembled from off-the-shelf automotive parts, and custom four-wheel drivetrain components were to be supplied by Spicer. The hand-built prototype was completed in Butler, Pennsylvania and driven to Camp Holabird, Maryland on September 23 for Army testing. The vehicle met all the Army's criteria except engine torque.
Development – 2. Willys and Ford
The Army thought that the Bantam company lacked the production capacity to manufacture and deliver the required number of vehicles, so it supplied the Bantam design to Willys and Ford, and encouraged them to enhance the design. The resulting Ford "Pygmy" and Willys "Quad" prototypes looked very similar to the Bantam BRC prototype, and Spicer supplied very similar four-wheel drivetrain components to all three manufacturers.
1,500 of each model (Bantam BRC-40, Ford GP, and Willys MA) were built and extensively field-tested. After the weight specification was revised, Willys-Overland's chief engineer Delmar "Barney" Roos modified the design in order to use Willys's heavy but powerful "Go Devil" engine, and won the initial production contract. The Willys version became the standard jeep design, designated the model MB, and was built at their plant in Toledo, Ohio. The familiar pressed-metal Jeep grille was a Ford design feature and incorporated in the final design by the Army.
Because the US War Department required a large number of vehicles in a short time, Willys-Overland granted the US Government a non-exclusive license to allow another company to manufacture vehicles using Willys' specifications. The Army chose Ford as a second supplier, building Jeeps to the Willys' design. Willys supplied Ford with a complete set of plans and specifications. American Bantam, the creators of the first Jeep, built approximately 2,700 of them to the BRC-40 design, but spent the rest of the war building heavy-duty trailers for the Army.
Final production version jeeps built by Willys-Overland were the Model MB, while those built by Ford were the Model GPW (G = government vehicle, P = 80" wheelbase, W = Willys engine design). There were subtle differences between the two. The versions produced by Ford had every component (including bolt heads) marked with an "F", and early on Ford also stamped their name in large letters in their trademark script, embossed in the rear panel of their jeeps. Willys followed the Ford pattern by stamping 'Willys' into several body parts, but the U.S. government objected to this practice, and both parties stopped this in 1942.
The cost per vehicle trended upwards as the war continued from the price under the first contract from Willys at US$648.74 (Ford's was $782.59 per unit). Willys-Overland and Ford, under the direction of Charles E. Sorensen (vice-president of Ford during World War II), produced about 640,000 Jeeps.
Jeeps were used by every service of the U.S. military. An average of 145 were supplied to every Army infantry regiment. Jeeps were used for many purposes, including cable laying, Sawmilling, as firefighting pumpers, field ambulances, tractors, and, with suitable wheels, would run on railway tracks."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep
I came across this drawing
...& it seemed like a pretty good guide
So, I'm thinking maybe ~50% should work for a mini jeep
...so, I'll just have to calculate a ~2:1 reduction
221 - 240 of 297 Posts
...& this week it's snowy & ~30*
I did get the (2) bends installed, on the front section of floorboard (before the snow came)
![Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Composite material]()
...& also, dry fit, in the frame
![Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Motor vehicle]()
Another angle/view
![Wood Flooring Hardwood Gas Composite material]()
* Multiple Bending Angle Dilemma
I decided to cut ALL of the side bolting flanges off of this front section (to simplify this piece)
...& will add bolting flanges to the side panels (for connecting the side panels to the floorboard)
The top drawing shows the side panels without a (~1") bottom bent edge (bolting flange)
...just a bent (~1") front edge (bolting flange) & hood line
&
The bottom drawing includes full length, upper & lower (~1") bent edges
IMO adding (~1") bends, to the top & bottom edges, should make the side panels stiffer (stronger)
...& should also, end up making them smoother too (reducing waviness)
![Brown Handwriting Font Material property Rectangle]()
...& also, dry fit, in the frame
Another angle/view
* Multiple Bending Angle Dilemma
I decided to cut ALL of the side bolting flanges off of this front section (to simplify this piece)
...& will add bolting flanges to the side panels (for connecting the side panels to the floorboard)
The top drawing shows the side panels without a (~1") bottom bent edge (bolting flange)
...just a bent (~1") front edge (bolting flange) & hood line
&
The bottom drawing includes full length, upper & lower (~1") bent edges
IMO adding (~1") bends, to the top & bottom edges, should make the side panels stiffer (stronger)
...& should also, end up making them smoother too (reducing waviness)
Here is a pic, test fitting the CAD left side body panel (template) up to/with the steel floorboard
Seems "pretty tight"
![Wood Flooring Floor Road surface Gas]()
So, (now) the "plan" is to have the bolting flange as part of, the side body panel
...& have it "tuck" up under the floorboard
...& then, secure the "junction" with a couple of nuts & bolts
Here's another view
![Wood Floor Font Gas Flooring]()
Seems "pretty tight"
So, (now) the "plan" is to have the bolting flange as part of, the side body panel
...& have it "tuck" up under the floorboard
...& then, secure the "junction" with a couple of nuts & bolts
Here's another view
Rear section of floorboard (Mechanical Drawing)
![Rectangle Schematic Font Line Parallel]()
Rear section of floorboard (CAD)
![Wood Rectangle Road surface Tints and shades Composite material]()
Rear section of floorboard (transferred to the steel)
![Wood Tile flooring Rectangle Flooring Road surface]()
Rear section of floorboard (1/2 cut out)
* Used the straight edges & Vice Grips as a guide to help make straight cuts
![Wood Floor Flooring Automotive tire Gas]()
Rear section of floorboard (100% cut out)
![Wood Door Automotive exterior Composite material Flooring]()
Rear section of floorboard (cut out scraps)
* Yup, that's snow, on the right side of the pic
![Road surface Asphalt Grey Wood Floor]()
Rear section of floorboard (manually installing the front bend) (Vice Grips X 6)
* Bend orientation: upwards
![Wood Floor Flooring Gas Composite material]()
Rear section of floorboard (not bad)
![Wood Gas Bumper Automotive exterior Composite material]()
Rear section of floorboard (manually installed the mid-bend)
* Bend orientation: downwards
![Wood Floor Automotive exterior Composite material Flooring]()
Rear section of floorboard (CAD)
Rear section of floorboard (transferred to the steel)
Rear section of floorboard (1/2 cut out)
* Used the straight edges & Vice Grips as a guide to help make straight cuts
Rear section of floorboard (100% cut out)
Rear section of floorboard (cut out scraps)
* Yup, that's snow, on the right side of the pic
Rear section of floorboard (manually installing the front bend) (Vice Grips X 6)
* Bend orientation: upwards
Rear section of floorboard (not bad)
Rear section of floorboard (manually installed the mid-bend)
* Bend orientation: downwards
I have & use Vice-Grips for a variety of clamping jobs (mock ups, welding etc.)
...but, hardly ever on/for nuts or bolts
* Unless the nut or bolt is/has been damaged
...& a standard socket or wrench won't work any longer
As far as benders, I have & use a DIY sheet metal bender, that can handle pieces up to ~25" wide (front of bench)
...& also, a HF sheet metal bender (up to ~30" W) (rear of bench)
I use them to make small parts (battery boxes, trays etc.)
...but, haven't had a need (so far) to bend larger pieces
![Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Composite material Gas]()
But
The front edge, of the rear section, of floorboard is ~25" wide
...but then, quickly gets wider, just behind that
&
The area where the second (mid) bend goes, is ~34" wide
...& in the rear, where the third bend goes, is ~32" wide
So,
A larger capacity bender would be nice
...but, I only need to make these (3) bends (that are "oversized" for my (current) benders)
So,
I decided to "run what I brung"
...& just try to "wing it" (technical term)
I think they turned out good
...or at least acceptable
...but, hardly ever on/for nuts or bolts
* Unless the nut or bolt is/has been damaged
...& a standard socket or wrench won't work any longer
As far as benders, I have & use a DIY sheet metal bender, that can handle pieces up to ~25" wide (front of bench)
...& also, a HF sheet metal bender (up to ~30" W) (rear of bench)
I use them to make small parts (battery boxes, trays etc.)
...but, haven't had a need (so far) to bend larger pieces
But
The front edge, of the rear section, of floorboard is ~25" wide
...but then, quickly gets wider, just behind that
&
The area where the second (mid) bend goes, is ~34" wide
...& in the rear, where the third bend goes, is ~32" wide
So,
A larger capacity bender would be nice
...but, I only need to make these (3) bends (that are "oversized" for my (current) benders)
So,
I decided to "run what I brung"
...& just try to "wing it" (technical term)
I think they turned out good
...or at least acceptable
Speaking of battery boxes:
Remy inadvertently brought up a valid point earlier, about battery box heat
...which got me to thinking about what else, inside of the box (besides the battery), can create heat
So, after re-evaluating the situation, it seems like "physically" mounting the SC's inside of the battery box, isn't a good idea
Because they can produce a lot of heat that can/will affect the battery
...& also, that "heat" isn't good on them either
As such, they would/could benefit from not being "sealed up in a box"
...& may even benefit from some cooling
* My main goal for this battery box is to secure the 2kWh of Lithium battery, in a steel box
...& then, secondarily to keep all of the (HV) battery cables & connections inside of the box
One of the earliest designs of the battery box, for this application, had the SC's (still) inside of the box
...but, off to the side
...& kinda like on a shelf (above the frame rail)
![Handwriting Product Rectangle Font Material property]()
So, the plan ended up evolving to just a simpler (to make) (2) piece, (4) sided box
...& mount the (2) SC's inside of the box
...& also, mount the CB right onto the front of the box
This way all of the battery cables & connections, would stay inside of "the box" (with the battery pack)
Speaking of Circuit Breakers:
Here are some ideas on CB mounting
...box mounting
...& a potential construction method
* That idea, was to have, the part of the box with the CB "butt" up against the floorboard
...in the angled down area
...& in front of the seat
This way the CB could be "flush" (& even) with the floor board (by protruding thru a hole)
...& so, easily accessible by the driver
![Handwriting Font Rectangle Wood Material property]()
But, "thinking it thru"
..."if" the CB was mounted "flush", with the floorboard (in front of & below the drivers seat) there seemed to be a "good" potential of "it" getting kicked during entry & exiting of the vehicle
So, it's probably NOT a good idea to have the CB "flush" with the floorboard
...& as such, "the plan" evolved to simply mounting the CB vertically (on the front of the battery box)
...& then, cutting an "access hole" in the floorboard
So, this way the CB would be safely mounted, down in a "recess" (& better protected)
...but, also, still easily accessible by the driver
Oh, yea back to the SC's
So, now I'm thinking that I can mount the SC's on an actual "shelf"
...on the chassis, right next to the battery box (but, thermically isolated)
This way the wiring from the SC's can still "feed" right into the side of the box
...where all of the cables & connections should be safe & secure
Like this:
![Wood Bumper Floor Hood Flooring]()
Another view:
![Electronic instrument Audio equipment Automotive exterior Gas Hood]()
Checking for clearance, with a CAD side body panel
![Wood Floor Automotive exterior Electrical wiring Gas]()
Double checking clearance with a CAD side panel & floorboard
![Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Metal]()
Remy inadvertently brought up a valid point earlier, about battery box heat
...which got me to thinking about what else, inside of the box (besides the battery), can create heat
So, after re-evaluating the situation, it seems like "physically" mounting the SC's inside of the battery box, isn't a good idea
Because they can produce a lot of heat that can/will affect the battery
...& also, that "heat" isn't good on them either
As such, they would/could benefit from not being "sealed up in a box"
...& may even benefit from some cooling
* My main goal for this battery box is to secure the 2kWh of Lithium battery, in a steel box
...& then, secondarily to keep all of the (HV) battery cables & connections inside of the box
One of the earliest designs of the battery box, for this application, had the SC's (still) inside of the box
...but, off to the side
...& kinda like on a shelf (above the frame rail)
So, the plan ended up evolving to just a simpler (to make) (2) piece, (4) sided box
...& mount the (2) SC's inside of the box
...& also, mount the CB right onto the front of the box
This way all of the battery cables & connections, would stay inside of "the box" (with the battery pack)
Speaking of Circuit Breakers:
Here are some ideas on CB mounting
...box mounting
...& a potential construction method
* That idea, was to have, the part of the box with the CB "butt" up against the floorboard
...in the angled down area
...& in front of the seat
This way the CB could be "flush" (& even) with the floor board (by protruding thru a hole)
...& so, easily accessible by the driver
But, "thinking it thru"
..."if" the CB was mounted "flush", with the floorboard (in front of & below the drivers seat) there seemed to be a "good" potential of "it" getting kicked during entry & exiting of the vehicle
So, it's probably NOT a good idea to have the CB "flush" with the floorboard
...& as such, "the plan" evolved to simply mounting the CB vertically (on the front of the battery box)
...& then, cutting an "access hole" in the floorboard
So, this way the CB would be safely mounted, down in a "recess" (& better protected)
...but, also, still easily accessible by the driver
Oh, yea back to the SC's
So, now I'm thinking that I can mount the SC's on an actual "shelf"
...on the chassis, right next to the battery box (but, thermically isolated)
This way the wiring from the SC's can still "feed" right into the side of the box
...where all of the cables & connections should be safe & secure
Like this:
Another view:
Checking for clearance, with a CAD side body panel
Double checking clearance with a CAD side panel & floorboard
I used some 1" x 1/2" steel channel, to make the body mounting brackets
...& they will also, help support the floorboards too
The first (1) bracket will go under the lower section of floorboard (under the drivers feet)
...& will also, help support the seam, between the front & rear sections of floorboard
The second & third brackets will go under (& will also, be used for mounting) the seats
The last bracket will go under (& help support) the floorboard, under the cargo area
![Wood Composite material Gas Metal Automotive exterior]()
Floorboards aligned & bolted together
...& bolted to the first mounting bracket too
![Wood Automotive exterior Gas Roof Automotive wheel system]()
Side view
![Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Automotive exterior Gas Bumper]()
The seam (connecting the front & rear sections of floorboard) looks nice-n-tight
![Wood Road surface Automotive tire Floor Flooring]()
...& here is how it looks from underneath
![Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Wood Gas]()
...& they will also, help support the floorboards too
The first (1) bracket will go under the lower section of floorboard (under the drivers feet)
...& will also, help support the seam, between the front & rear sections of floorboard
The second & third brackets will go under (& will also, be used for mounting) the seats
The last bracket will go under (& help support) the floorboard, under the cargo area
Floorboards aligned & bolted together
...& bolted to the first mounting bracket too
Side view
The seam (connecting the front & rear sections of floorboard) looks nice-n-tight
...& here is how it looks from underneath
Just the frame, with body mounting brackets, as seen here
...& "stood up" on a scale
...it looks like it comes in right at 46lbs. (so far)
Front & rear floorboard sections, come in at ~21 lbs.
![Wood Measuring instrument Clock Hardwood Font]()
Seat(s) diagram
![Rectangle Sleeve Font Pattern Wood]()
Seat(s) (bases)
![Wood Table Gas Composite material Automotive exterior]()
Seat(s) (pass side dry fit)
![Wood Outdoor furniture Gas Chair Composite material]()
Seat(s) (~36" from pedals to back of seat bottom)
![Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas Bumper Tool]()
Seat(s) (~10" from seat to steering wheel)
![Automotive tire Tread Wood Road surface Chair]()
Seat(s) (~14" from seat back bottom to steering wheel)
![Wood Automotive tire Bumper Floor Road surface]()
Seat(s) diagram
Seat(s) (bases)
Seat(s) (pass side dry fit)
Seat(s) (~36" from pedals to back of seat bottom)
Seat(s) (~10" from seat to steering wheel)
Seat(s) (~14" from seat back bottom to steering wheel)
I maintained the cargo area, for carrying "parade" stuff
...whereas most mini-Jeeps, fill that area with the seats
I am thinking about incorporating an access panel, under the drivers seat
...so, the SC's & wiring & connections are (well) accessible
This way, if any issues arise, I (hopefully) won't have to "drop" the (~55lb.) battery box
... just for simple trouble shooting
Like checking/looking for a loose connection
...or even to be able to probe (the connections) for continuity &/or voltage
Jeep owners come up with lots of interesting, kool & sometimes quirky sayings
...&/so, I'm going to share some of them with you'all
Common answer for any Jeep related question:
"It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand"
Bouncing around again
...but, that's kinda what ya do in a Jeep
I drew up a rear section of floorboard bending sequence diagram
It illustrates both the bending order & the direction of bend
Bends #1 & #2 are already done
![Handwriting Rectangle Font Pattern Parallel]()
Bend #3 is actually (3) separate "pieces" (the tailgate & (2) 1" bolting flanges)
...& it "spans" ~32"
So, I used the edge of an old (solid) wooden door (workbench top)
...a piece of 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle iron (main hold down)
...a piece of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle iron (bender)
...& a variety of C-clamps (main hold down clampers)
...& a few pairs of vice grips (bender clampers)
![Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Composite material Wood]()
Then, tightened up & sharpened the edge of the bends with a Rubber Mallet
![Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Fender Wood]()
Good enough for Jeep work
...&/so, I'm going to share some of them with you'all
Common answer for any Jeep related question:
"It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand"
Bouncing around again
...but, that's kinda what ya do in a Jeep
I drew up a rear section of floorboard bending sequence diagram
It illustrates both the bending order & the direction of bend
Bends #1 & #2 are already done
Bend #3 is actually (3) separate "pieces" (the tailgate & (2) 1" bolting flanges)
...& it "spans" ~32"
So, I used the edge of an old (solid) wooden door (workbench top)
...a piece of 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle iron (main hold down)
...a piece of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle iron (bender)
...& a variety of C-clamps (main hold down clampers)
...& a few pairs of vice grips (bender clampers)
Then, tightened up & sharpened the edge of the bends with a Rubber Mallet
Good enough for Jeep work
Jeep:
"Don't follow me, you won't make it"
Bend #4 Left Inner Fender (prebend)
![Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive tire]()
Bend #4 (post bend)
![Table Wood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive tire]()
Another angle
![Tool Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive tire Gas]()
"Don't follow me, you won't make it"
Bend #4 Left Inner Fender (prebend)
Bend #4 (post bend)
Another angle
Jeep:
Making weekends more fun since 1941
Same procedure for the Left Inner Fender
...& all of the 1" Bolting Flange(s)
Before
![Wood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas]()
After
![Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Hardwood Gas]()
Getting "fancy"
![Gas Space Art Darkness Metal]()
Last couple of bends
![Table Wood Flooring Hardwood Automotive exterior]()
Ended up looking like this
![Wood Bumper Gas Rectangle Hardwood]()
Another view
![Table Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Rectangle]()
Making weekends more fun since 1941
Same procedure for the Left Inner Fender
...& all of the 1" Bolting Flange(s)
Before
After
Getting "fancy"
Last couple of bends
Ended up looking like this
Another view
Jeep:
No Boost or Bottle, Just Balls & Throttle
Real World Research:
I towed a wrecked Jeep the other day, that had one of its front fenders "ripped" off
...& so, I examined how the body panels are connected in a FS (full size) Jeep
![Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle]()
A closer view
![Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Car]()
Upon a closer examination, it looks like overlapping panels, that are just spot welded together)
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread]()
In another area, it looks like there are 3 separate pieces, overlapped & then, spot welded
![Tire Wheel Land vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
Here it also, looks like 3 separate pieces overlapped & then, spot welded too
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber]()
So, I guess either Butt connections
...or Overlapped body panel connections will "work", depending on the situation
![Handwriting Rectangle Wood Font Parallel]()
No Boost or Bottle, Just Balls & Throttle
Real World Research:
I towed a wrecked Jeep the other day, that had one of its front fenders "ripped" off
...& so, I examined how the body panels are connected in a FS (full size) Jeep
A closer view
Upon a closer examination, it looks like overlapping panels, that are just spot welded together)
In another area, it looks like there are 3 separate pieces, overlapped & then, spot welded
Here it also, looks like 3 separate pieces overlapped & then, spot welded too
So, I guess either Butt connections
...or Overlapped body panel connections will "work", depending on the situation
Jeep Math:
4 x 4 = OFF ROAD
I was specifically thinking about the Cowl to Side body panel junction
...& if this junction would be "better" if a standard body panel Butt connection was used
...or if just overlapping panels was used &/or acceptable, like this:
![Wood Shipping box Flooring Floor Hardwood]()
...or
Now, with (going to have) full length flange(s) on the body side panels, I could just add a 1" bolting flange to the Cowl
...& then, just bolt the (2) pieces together
![Wood Interior design Shelving Floor House]()
4 x 4 = OFF ROAD
I was specifically thinking about the Cowl to Side body panel junction
...& if this junction would be "better" if a standard body panel Butt connection was used
...or if just overlapping panels was used &/or acceptable, like this:
...or
Now, with (going to have) full length flange(s) on the body side panels, I could just add a 1" bolting flange to the Cowl
...& then, just bolt the (2) pieces together
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