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'wittle 'wesistor (Mini Jeep)

17061 Views 296 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Functional Artist
For my next creation, I've been thinking about building a go kart sized jeep (mini-Jeep)
...but first, here is some Jeep info.

"The Jeep marque has been headquartered in Toledo, Ohio, ever since Willys–Overland launched production of the first CJ or Civilian Jeep branded models there in 1945. Its replacement, the conceptually consistent Jeep Wrangler series, remains in production since 1986. With its solid axles and open top, the Wrangler is the Jeep model that is central to the brand's identity.

At least two Jeep models (the CJ-5 and the SJ Wagoneer) enjoyed extraordinary three-decade production runs of a single body generation.

In lowercase, the term "jeep" continues to be used as a generic term for vehicles inspired by the Jeep that are suitable for use on rough terrain. In Iceland, the word Jeppi (derived from Jeep) has been used since WWII and is still used for any type of SUV.

Prior to 1940 the term "jeep" had been used as U.S. Army slang for new recruits or vehicles, but the World War II "jeep" that went into production in 1941 specifically tied the name to this light military 4x4, arguably making them the oldest four-wheel drive mass-production vehicles now known as SUVs. The Jeep became the primary light 4-wheel-drive vehicle of the United States Armed Forces and the Allies during World War II, as well as the postwar period. The term became common worldwide in the wake of the war. Doug Stewart noted: "The spartan, cramped, and unstintingly functional jeep became the ubiquitous World War II four-wheeled personification of Yankee ingenuity and cocky, can-do determination." It is the precursor of subsequent generations of military light utility vehicles such as the Humvee, and inspired the creation of civilian analogs such as the original Series I Land Rover. Many Jeep variants serving similar military and civilian roles have since been designed in other nations.

Development – 1. Bantam Reconnaissance Car
When it became clear that the United States would be involved in the European theater of World War II, the Army contacted 135 companies to create working prototypes of a four-wheel drive reconnaissance car. Only two companies responded: American Bantam Car Company and Willys-Overland. The Army set a seemingly impossible deadline of 49 days to supply a working prototype. Willys asked for more time, but was refused. American Bantam had only a small staff with nobody to draft the vehicle plans, so chief engineer Harold Crist hired Karl Probst, a talented freelance designer from Detroit. After turning down Bantam's initial request, Probst responded to an Army request and began work on July 17, 1940, initially without salary.

Probst drafted the full plans in just two days for the Bantam prototype known as the BRC or Bantam Reconnaissance Car, working up a cost estimate the next day. Bantam's bid was submitted on July 22, complete with blueprints. Much of the vehicle could be assembled from off-the-shelf automotive parts, and custom four-wheel drivetrain components were to be supplied by Spicer. The hand-built prototype was completed in Butler, Pennsylvania and driven to Camp Holabird, Maryland on September 23 for Army testing. The vehicle met all the Army's criteria except engine torque.

Development – 2. Willys and Ford
The Army thought that the Bantam company lacked the production capacity to manufacture and deliver the required number of vehicles, so it supplied the Bantam design to Willys and Ford, and encouraged them to enhance the design. The resulting Ford "Pygmy" and Willys "Quad" prototypes looked very similar to the Bantam BRC prototype, and Spicer supplied very similar four-wheel drivetrain components to all three manufacturers.

1,500 of each model (Bantam BRC-40, Ford GP, and Willys MA) were built and extensively field-tested. After the weight specification was revised, Willys-Overland's chief engineer Delmar "Barney" Roos modified the design in order to use Willys's heavy but powerful "Go Devil" engine, and won the initial production contract. The Willys version became the standard jeep design, designated the model MB, and was built at their plant in Toledo, Ohio. The familiar pressed-metal Jeep grille was a Ford design feature and incorporated in the final design by the Army.

Because the US War Department required a large number of vehicles in a short time, Willys-Overland granted the US Government a non-exclusive license to allow another company to manufacture vehicles using Willys' specifications. The Army chose Ford as a second supplier, building Jeeps to the Willys' design. Willys supplied Ford with a complete set of plans and specifications. American Bantam, the creators of the first Jeep, built approximately 2,700 of them to the BRC-40 design, but spent the rest of the war building heavy-duty trailers for the Army.

Final production version jeeps built by Willys-Overland were the Model MB, while those built by Ford were the Model GPW (G = government vehicle, P = 80" wheelbase, W = Willys engine design). There were subtle differences between the two. The versions produced by Ford had every component (including bolt heads) marked with an "F", and early on Ford also stamped their name in large letters in their trademark script, embossed in the rear panel of their jeeps. Willys followed the Ford pattern by stamping 'Willys' into several body parts, but the U.S. government objected to this practice, and both parties stopped this in 1942.

The cost per vehicle trended upwards as the war continued from the price under the first contract from Willys at US$648.74 (Ford's was $782.59 per unit). Willys-Overland and Ford, under the direction of Charles E. Sorensen (vice-president of Ford during World War II), produced about 640,000 Jeeps.

Jeeps were used by every service of the U.S. military. An average of 145 were supplied to every Army infantry regiment. Jeeps were used for many purposes, including cable laying, Sawmilling, as firefighting pumpers, field ambulances, tractors, and, with suitable wheels, would run on railway tracks."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep

I came across this drawing
...& it seemed like a pretty good guide

So, I'm thinking maybe ~50% should work for a mini jeep
...so, I'll just have to calculate a ~2:1 reduction ;)

Wheel Tire Wood Font Rectangle
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Butt joint, and then grind to hide the welds is my vote.

Eastwood and others sell panel clips that gap the two panels but hold them in one plane for welding.

You've been around the block a few times as far as avoiding panel distortion from weld heat.
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Butt joint, and then grind to hide the welds is my vote.

Eastwood and others sell panel clips that gap the two panels but hold them in one plane for welding.

You've been around the block a few times as far as avoiding panel distortion from weld heat.
Yes, Positive Feedback (y) (y) (y)

Thanks :):):)
...now, please "spread the love" :D:D:D
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Jeep:
Fun begins where roads end :cool:

I woke up with an idea :D

A mechanical, nut & bolt actuated, Grille Press
Rectangle Font Art Parallel Pattern

Like, maybe cut the perimeter of the grille (using the CAD template) out of a piece of ~1" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard)
...& use both pieces

The top would be the negative (-) side) or mold
...& the bottom positive (+) side) would be the die

Then, insert a piece of the 18g steel in between
...& use a bunch of nuts & bolts to clamp the (2) pieces of the "mold" together
...mostly around the perimeter
...but also, strategically placed in the light (sockets) & grille slots

I'm thinking it should "press" the die into the piece of steel
...& then, continue to form "it" around the die, inside of the mold

Here is a quickly drawn side view (hopefully it makes sense) ;)
Handwriting Rectangle Font Wood Parallel

Probably divide the "pressing" in a few "steps
...like do the perimeter first
...then, "press" the grille slots
...& finally, the head & marker light indentations :)
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Want to see a video of the die in action. Surprise me when the MDF doesn't crumble.

🍿

You might be able to use steel inserts as hammer-forming dies, or slotted-dimple dies, in your MDF, using the MDF to locate the inserts, but I'm skeptical the MDF will live through being a press die without at least a heavy backing plate. Even then, I think it'll crumble. The bolts are a good idea to get the forces for cheap.

I'd just make the grill out of plywood, seal it, prime it, and it should take paint just like the metal panels. It's the fastest way to do this job.

If you're bent on using metal, hammer form the outer edges and use one custom-made dimple or hammer-forming die to make each grill slot.
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Want to see a video of the die in action. Surprise me when the MDF doesn't crumble.

🍿

You might be able to use steel inserts as hammer-forming dies, or slotted-dimple dies, in your MDF, using the MDF to locate the inserts, but I'm skeptical the MDF will live through being a press die without at least a heavy backing plate. Even then, I think it'll crumble. The bolts are a good idea to get the forces for cheap.

I'd just make the grill out of plywood, seal it, prime it, and it should take paint just like the metal panels. It's the fastest way to do this job.

If you're bent on using metal, hammer form the outer edges and use one custom-made dimple or hammer-forming die to make each grill slot.
Wood?...really?...wood?...really?...?...wood? :eek:
...but, Jeep's don't have wooden grilles?

Oh, ye of little faith
...we'll just have to see :p

I got some ideas
...but, give me a minute (or 2)
...this is gonna take some "setting up" ;)
...so, we'll have to get back to it (y)

Jeep:
Never lost, always out adventuring :cool:

I did a final CAD mockup, of the Butt-joint that I was referring to
...just to "double check" before moving on, to steel
Hood Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior

...& an inside view (nice wide bolting flange) :)
Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Wood Machine
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Use 2 inch wide boards the same width as the grill to distribute the force of the bolts. Instead of having all the force on 4 1/4? inch nuts on each side, lessens the chances of the MDF crumbling.
Later floyd
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8
Jeep:
To avoid injury, don't touch my Jeep :cool:

I made up some seat back to seat bottom, brackets
...out of some 1" x 1" angle iron
Wood Road surface Asphalt Floor Wood stain

Measuring & marking (for the bends)
Wood Office ruler Font Tree Measuring instrument

Making sure both pieces were, marked the same
Handwriting Road surface Rectangle Wood Brick

Cut out
Brown Wood Road surface Brick Brickwork

Clamped down to the work bench, for bending
Wood Bumper Gas Chair Automotive wheel system

Bent
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tool Gas Engineering

A close up view
Automotive tire Bumper Rim Automotive exterior Composite material

After welding
Wood Composite material Rim Natural material Automotive tire
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7
Jeep:
Aerodynamics,
we don't need no stinkin' aerodynamics
:cool:

Seat bases installed on the seat brackets
Wood Road surface Tool Gas Flooring

Dry fit on the chassis
Wood Gas Composite material Metal Aluminium

Dry fit on the floorboard
Wood Gas Composite material Metal Tool

Dry fit, with a CAD side body panel
Wood Gas Siding Automotive exterior Plywood

Another view
Wood Gas Technology Electrical wiring Hardwood

Clearance, from the back of the seats to the rear inner fenders/wheel wells is way more than I expected :)
Table Bumper Wood Hood Automotive exterior

Looks to be ~3 1/2" ;)
Wood Road surface Asphalt Rectangle Composite material
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Seatbacks are too high for a Jeep, given you didn't build rollover protection into the seat frames.
2
Jeep:
Jeep Hair Don't Care :cool:

DIY Mini-Jeep Grille stamping apparatus

Mold
Rectangle Wood Gas Automotive exterior Font

Die
Rectangle Wood Font Gas Pattern
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5
~22g Stainless Steel Mini-Jeep Grille "blank" aligned on the Die
...& ready for the Mold
Wood Gas Flooring Art Games

After pressing (still on the Die)
Wood Rectangle Gas Bumper Flooring

After pressing (popped off of the Die)
Wood Rectangle Gas Composite material Auto part

Another view
Rectangle Gas Composite material Electronic instrument Metal

Noticed a little bit of "bunching" on the curves
Tableware Wood Dishware Bumper Serveware
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Nice.

You going to dimple die the lighting pockets? You have half the tooling done...
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Did you oil the sheet when you pressed it or did you press it dry?
Might want to try some oil on the sheets as you form them - you'll still get shrinkage, but the metal may flow better over those edge radiuses.
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Hey Remy,
I don't know for sure but, it seems like oil (any moisture) would get soaked up by the MDF & cause it to swell up.
...but, this MDF sawdust (is frickin' coating everything/everywhere) is like a powder (dry lube)

I wasn't happy with the way the light sockets turned out.
It seems like I left too much material when I cut-out the holes.

So, I cut them out a bit bigger

* Notice: I switched out the 1/4" drill bit "center guide" with a piece of 1/4" steel rod
...because the drill bit can damage the "guide hole" (in the material) especially if used multiple times

Once the guide hole (in the material) gets damaged, the hole saw can/will move around
...or "wander" (technical term)
...& will no longer cut nice-n-pretty holes
Automotive tire Gas Auto part Circle Metal

...& then, individually re-pressed them (MDF die, nuts & bolts & washers)
Liquid Automotive lighting Hood Gas Electric blue

Left side before re-trimming & right side after
Rectangle Gas Wood Audio equipment Metal

After re-pressing
Automotive lighting Material property Gas Wood Tints and shades
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Yup...you'd need to seal the mdf with spar varnish.
3
Jeep:
I work hard
...so, my Jeep can have a better life :cool:


Mini-Jeep Grille Slot Mold

Bottom

Wood Wood stain Gas Cuisine Circle

Top
Wood Hand tool Tool Gas Hardwood

Aluminum "test piece"
Wood Rectangle Font Gas Auto part
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Steel version (with slots)
Grille Rectangle Automotive lighting Audio equipment Automotive exterior

Used some sheet metal forming plyers to "clean up" the slots
Wood Tool Hand tool Gas Hardwood

Slots, after some bodywork
Wood Font Gas Kitchen utensil Metal
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2
I couldn't find the "off" button
...& the Mini-Jeep Grilles just kept "popping" out :p
Grille Automotive tire White Motor vehicle Manhole cover

* Notice the bottom (2) Grilles have more depth
...& mounting flanges :)
Wood Automotive exterior Font Gas Automotive tire

Functional Art
...&/or Man-Cave ornaments ;)
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