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'wittle 'wesistor (Mini Jeep)

6926 Views 152 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  remy_martian
For my next creation, I've been thinking about building a go kart sized jeep (mini-Jeep)
...but first, here is some Jeep info.

"The Jeep marque has been headquartered in Toledo, Ohio, ever since Willys–Overland launched production of the first CJ or Civilian Jeep branded models there in 1945. Its replacement, the conceptually consistent Jeep Wrangler series, remains in production since 1986. With its solid axles and open top, the Wrangler is the Jeep model that is central to the brand's identity.

At least two Jeep models (the CJ-5 and the SJ Wagoneer) enjoyed extraordinary three-decade production runs of a single body generation.

In lowercase, the term "jeep" continues to be used as a generic term for vehicles inspired by the Jeep that are suitable for use on rough terrain. In Iceland, the word Jeppi (derived from Jeep) has been used since WWII and is still used for any type of SUV.

Prior to 1940 the term "jeep" had been used as U.S. Army slang for new recruits or vehicles, but the World War II "jeep" that went into production in 1941 specifically tied the name to this light military 4x4, arguably making them the oldest four-wheel drive mass-production vehicles now known as SUVs. The Jeep became the primary light 4-wheel-drive vehicle of the United States Armed Forces and the Allies during World War II, as well as the postwar period. The term became common worldwide in the wake of the war. Doug Stewart noted: "The spartan, cramped, and unstintingly functional jeep became the ubiquitous World War II four-wheeled personification of Yankee ingenuity and cocky, can-do determination." It is the precursor of subsequent generations of military light utility vehicles such as the Humvee, and inspired the creation of civilian analogs such as the original Series I Land Rover. Many Jeep variants serving similar military and civilian roles have since been designed in other nations.

Development – 1. Bantam Reconnaissance Car
When it became clear that the United States would be involved in the European theater of World War II, the Army contacted 135 companies to create working prototypes of a four-wheel drive reconnaissance car. Only two companies responded: American Bantam Car Company and Willys-Overland. The Army set a seemingly impossible deadline of 49 days to supply a working prototype. Willys asked for more time, but was refused. American Bantam had only a small staff with nobody to draft the vehicle plans, so chief engineer Harold Crist hired Karl Probst, a talented freelance designer from Detroit. After turning down Bantam's initial request, Probst responded to an Army request and began work on July 17, 1940, initially without salary.

Probst drafted the full plans in just two days for the Bantam prototype known as the BRC or Bantam Reconnaissance Car, working up a cost estimate the next day. Bantam's bid was submitted on July 22, complete with blueprints. Much of the vehicle could be assembled from off-the-shelf automotive parts, and custom four-wheel drivetrain components were to be supplied by Spicer. The hand-built prototype was completed in Butler, Pennsylvania and driven to Camp Holabird, Maryland on September 23 for Army testing. The vehicle met all the Army's criteria except engine torque.

Development – 2. Willys and Ford
The Army thought that the Bantam company lacked the production capacity to manufacture and deliver the required number of vehicles, so it supplied the Bantam design to Willys and Ford, and encouraged them to enhance the design. The resulting Ford "Pygmy" and Willys "Quad" prototypes looked very similar to the Bantam BRC prototype, and Spicer supplied very similar four-wheel drivetrain components to all three manufacturers.

1,500 of each model (Bantam BRC-40, Ford GP, and Willys MA) were built and extensively field-tested. After the weight specification was revised, Willys-Overland's chief engineer Delmar "Barney" Roos modified the design in order to use Willys's heavy but powerful "Go Devil" engine, and won the initial production contract. The Willys version became the standard jeep design, designated the model MB, and was built at their plant in Toledo, Ohio. The familiar pressed-metal Jeep grille was a Ford design feature and incorporated in the final design by the Army.

Because the US War Department required a large number of vehicles in a short time, Willys-Overland granted the US Government a non-exclusive license to allow another company to manufacture vehicles using Willys' specifications. The Army chose Ford as a second supplier, building Jeeps to the Willys' design. Willys supplied Ford with a complete set of plans and specifications. American Bantam, the creators of the first Jeep, built approximately 2,700 of them to the BRC-40 design, but spent the rest of the war building heavy-duty trailers for the Army.

Final production version jeeps built by Willys-Overland were the Model MB, while those built by Ford were the Model GPW (G = government vehicle, P = 80" wheelbase, W = Willys engine design). There were subtle differences between the two. The versions produced by Ford had every component (including bolt heads) marked with an "F", and early on Ford also stamped their name in large letters in their trademark script, embossed in the rear panel of their jeeps. Willys followed the Ford pattern by stamping 'Willys' into several body parts, but the U.S. government objected to this practice, and both parties stopped this in 1942.

The cost per vehicle trended upwards as the war continued from the price under the first contract from Willys at US$648.74 (Ford's was $782.59 per unit). Willys-Overland and Ford, under the direction of Charles E. Sorensen (vice-president of Ford during World War II), produced about 640,000 Jeeps.

Jeeps were used by every service of the U.S. military. An average of 145 were supplied to every Army infantry regiment. Jeeps were used for many purposes, including cable laying, Sawmilling, as firefighting pumpers, field ambulances, tractors, and, with suitable wheels, would run on railway tracks."

I came across this drawing
...& it seemed like a pretty good guide

So, I'm thinking maybe ~50% should work for a mini jeep, I'll just have to calculate a ~2:1 reduction ;)

Wheel Tire Wood Font Rectangle
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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
I applaud your skill in "CAD" looks good to me.(y)
later floyd
Hey Floyd,
Thank you sir :)

I'd plasma or laser cut the front grill.

Oshcut or Sendcutsend are the ones I'n aware of if you don't have local access.

Many local welding shops, especially the ones who do signs and metalart, these days have plasmas.
Hey Remy,
Here is what I came up with, for an "old school" Jeep looking grille :cool:
Wood Rectangle Font Flooring Hardwood

I'm not sure how (just yet)
...but, I was thinking, for the grille, (maybe) something along the lines of "stamped" steel (~18g. - 20g.) FS Jeep grilles are or at least they used to be (I think they are made out of plastic, now) :eek:

Probably, like cut out the main overall shape & slots
...& then, do some "forming" over a die (of some kind) to round the edges (kinda like DIY "stamped" panels) ;)

Still thinking on this :p
* Anyone have any tips, on doing stuff like that?

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895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Oh yea,
I was going over some details of the build, with my technical advisor, (twin bro to the "nappy" inspector)
Brown Table Textile Wood Flooring

...& I casually mentioned (in conversation) that Remy has been doing better, at being nice(er) (for the most part) to most folks, on the forum, lately
...& he was like...
Cat Handwriting Wood Carnivore Fawn

JK..JK :p

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
There's a Canadian guy, who's your kind of frugal metalworker 😛, that shows how it's done in an episode that I was watching a week or two ago.

These might give you some ideas
Yes, :giggle:
...that's what "I'm talkin' about"
... & right up my "alley" (y)

I need to work on that being nice slipping out of character. year character :p

* I like ya better this way ;)

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895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #148 ·
* Please excuse the delay
...sometimes, I get "side tracked" ;)

I've been experiencing an Art Eruption
...& this "popped out" :giggle:
Wood Wooden block Wood stain Hardwood Art

Let's call it Splash :p
Wheel Wood Vehicle Motor vehicle Bench

** I guess, I must have come down with a case of OCD (Obsessive Cardboard Disorder) :unsure:

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895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #150 ·
You may be onto something here.
That would be a lovely piece of yard art...
Your probably right, especially around here (as folks really get "into" their Jeeps & stuff)

I got a "vision" after creating & assembling all of these cardboard mini-Jeep body parts, I modified some of them, a bit & threw it together
...but, they are mainly just for sizing, fitment & practice assembly purposes

Here are a couple of front fender templates
Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain

* Notice, I forgot/left off the mounting flange on the lower piece
...& the upper piece is a completed (ready to use) template (y)

Once we have the overall size & "simple" shape of a piece (in this example a fender, plus flanges)
...then, we have to bend "it" into a 3D shape

** To help manipulate where the bends will be (in cardboard) I used a straight edge
...& a rounded edge, to crease the material
Office ruler Tool Rectangle Tape measure Wood

kinda like this
Table Ruler Tape measure Wood Rectangle

...& then, used the straight edge to help fold it up like this
Ruler Wood Table Wood stain Finger

Here is a fender installed, with the mounting flanges
...with a nice-n-clean look ;)
Wood Interior design Shelving Floor House

Here is an under view, of the mounting flanges
Wood Rectangle Floor Triangle Flooring

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Never seen bolted cardboard before...

The lost art of Tab A into Slot B.
Well, tabs & slots are not the proper attachment method for this application
...or how the "real" fenders are/will be mounted

Remember, I'm making cardboard templates, to make "real" parts from (made out of metal), these templates have to be representative of them "real" parts
...& also, mount as such ;)

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In "the good old days", toys, made in Japan, were made of stamped tin and used tabs and slots to hold the parts together. Much like your Jeepette could.

Curious kids would unbend the tabs using a butter knife and pop the toy open to see how it worked (most were variations of watchspring windups and geared flywheels, some had flint sparkers).

After a couple of assembles and disassembles, the tin tabs broke off from work which point, frustrated parents would ask, "why are you breaking your toys all the time? You're not getting any more if you keep breaking them."

But, we weren't breaking them...

They still bought the toys for some reason 🤓
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