[Scanales]

Hello Everyone,

Starting work on my 1989 Mini. Thinking of keeping the original gearbox and mounting a Hyper9 motor directly on top of it. Using SilentSync sprockets and belt as a drive system. Have something similar to bdrive.ch ´s conversion in mind. But interested in using the Hyper9 9 and some Tesla modules from the get go.


Also considering the EV Europe system: https://eveurope.eu/en/product/ev-hype-kit-low-voltage-max-90-kwatt-180-vdc/

I have no advance knowledge in EV conversions so I want to keep everything as simple as possible for this one.

Interested in getting some feedback from you guys who are the experts. Let me know your thoughts.

Am I in the right path or is this combo I have in mind a not so good Idea.

Cheers

 

[Tomdb]

Where are you based as this will effect what you can legally do?

I am also looking at a mini at the moment, I can tell you tesla modules mean you have to sacrifice quite alot of space in the car.

 

[Scanales]

Based in Mexico! No real worries about what I can legally do.

On the battery side, I was thinking on 5 x 5.2kWh modules. It will be a tight fit.

What are your thoughts on batteries?

 

[Tremelune]

What is SilentSync? Driving a Mini transmission with anything other than a Mini motor is...non-trivial. They're also designed to handle less than 100ftlb of torque...An option there would be to use a Honda conversion subframe and transmission (which opens the door for AWD), but it's still tricky to get a belt/gear system working to spin it.

Tesla S modules have good power density, but their length makes them tough to fit. Were you planning on keeping the rear seat? What range are you hoping for?

 

[brian_]

Thinking of keeping the original gearbox and mounting a Hyper9 motor directly on top of it. Using SilentSync sprockets and belt as a drive system...

I understand wanting to keep the original powertrain mounting and axles, but the Mini engine and transmission setup is very undesirable for conversion to an electric motor. The consensus seems to agree with Tremelune: use an aftermarket (or modified stock) subframe to mount a more suitable transaxle, or to use the entire drive unit (motor with transaxle) salvaged from a typical production EV.

Also considering the EV Europe system: https://eveurope.eu/en/product/ev-hype-kit-low-voltage-max-90-kwatt-180-vdc/

The electronics package mounted directly on top of the motor is a tidy setup for many vehicles, emulating the shape of a typical engine which is being replaced, but it looks very tall to put in a Mini, especially stacked on top of the transmission. I would check dimensions carefully.

 

[Brendon_m]

I have converted a 77 moke and successfully kept the original transmission. It works but it was a pain to do and the gearbox is noisy and I'm always worried I'm going to destroy the 40 year old Leyland gearbox /driveshafts with the new power.
If I was to do it again I would look to drop in an imiev running gear or maybe fit a rwd cars diff to the front and belt/chain drive it with the motor sitting on top of the diff.

 

[youngestEVer]

Based in Mexico! No real worries about what I can legally do.

On the battery side, I was thinking on 5 x 5.2kWh modules. It will be a tight fit.

What are your thoughts on batteries?

Hey this sounds like a sweet build! I’m actually finishing up development on a product that is geared toward hyper 9 systems and Orion BMS 2. It is a box that handles most of your complex wiring, and greatly simplifies your conversion. It’ll save you a lot of time and money in the process! It is a build to order product and you can select what features you want such as air conditioning, etc. This is a product that is going to be sold by netgain likely here very soon.

Email me at [email protected]

I feel like this product would help simply your conversion and we can build it custom to what features you need. (Also lots of little cool features on it). It’s not a very expensive unit, and it greatly reduces time needed to wire up a car, and helps work you through some small ‘issues’ you will encounter with Tesla battery water pump and such. You can read about it in the product overview I’ll send you.

Anyways, hopefully this could help you out! I can also help plan your project if you need help as well

 

[pickmeup]

I have converted a 77 moke and successfully kept the original transmission. It works but it was a pain to do and the gearbox is noisy and I'm always worried I'm going to destroy the 40 year old Leyland gearbox /driveshafts with the new power.
If I was to do it again I would look to drop in an imiev running gear or maybe fit a rwd cars diff to the front and belt/chain drive it with the motor sitting on top of the diff.

do you have any links to the build and how you adapted the box to work? Are you using the original transfer gears or a chain/belt drive to the input shaft?

 

[Brendon_m]

Build thread is here
https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=5608

Look at page 3 for the info on my coupler.

I used the original drop gears but my method probably won't help you* as I squeezed the motor in where the clutch used to live on the end of the old ICE and it only just fit in there by a few millimetres and the moke (apparently) has more room in the engine bay compared to a mini

*Edit - just noticed the person asking for the link wasn't the OP, so maybe it is relevant and may help.

 

[Tremelune]

In short: It involved a lathe.

 

[Scanales]

Thank you all for the feedback! MAIN reason for that setup was to keep it as simple as possible.

However starting too look at different options. Keeping the subframe may be easier than a complete new setup.

 

[Scanales]

Hello everyone,

Stumbled with this option online:

https://swind.life/products/hpd-2/

Size seems manageable, price wise seems similar to what I had in mind. Will the Shafts be an issue? Should I go for the limited slip diff? Using this system with other components non SWINDON could be challenging?

Regards

 

[Tremelune]

Nice little lump, but unless they'll also sell you a Mini subframe that fits it, I'm not sure I see the point over a Leaf (unless they're hard to find?)...

£6,400 is pricey...Even £2,000 is...

 

[Scanales]

4,980 GBP in the config I need it, it can go up to 6,400 GBP.

Already tried the leaf alternative. It is really hard and expensive to get one of those in Mexico as there is just few of them on the roads.

With the diff ratio of 6.332, should be able to reach around 90 mph top speed.

Weight and dimensions seem ok...

Another option to contemplate I guess

 

[Tremelune]

See if you can get a subframe and axles, too...They build these things (but charge six digits):

https://swind.life/products/e-classic/

 

[Scanales]

This is a CAD dwg just for size reference. I just got confirmation they will be selling shafts and a subframe.

I’m really leaning into this solution.

 

[brian_]

Stumbled with this option online:

https://swind.life/products/hpd-2/

Size seems manageable, price wise seems similar to what I had in mind. Will the Shafts be an issue? Should I go for the limited slip diff? Using this system with other components non SWINDON could be challenging?

That looks like a nice package. Not much different from typical salvaged EV drive units in design and performance, but potentially easier to work with... but that's why they need to describe inverter options and support use of any aftermarket inverter/controller, as well as to document the axle outputs and support the use of various inner CV joints. It's a lot of money compared to a salvaged unit if you are stuck with their controller and it isn't easy to use, and if you are required to custom-build axles.

It's unlikely that Swindon builds any of this - they have presumably just contracted with a motor supplier and a gearbox supplier (and an inverter supplier), but that is useful to the DIY builder if it makes it possible to buy one of each at a reasonable price, since most of these products are only available in production quantities.

I haven't checked the dimensions against the Leaf unit, but I assume it's a reasonable size. It also has substantially lower torque but the same power, which means that it doesn't produce the rated 80 kW until about 5600 rpm - twice the motor speed of the Leaf motor, because it has half the rated torque. That's okay for a small car such as the classic Mini, but anyone considering it for another application needs to think about that. It can't run any faster than a Leaf motor, so simply choosing the higher gear reduction ratio is not a solution if you need to achieve highway speeds.

See if you can get a subframe and axles, too...They build these things (but charge six digits):

https://swind.life/products/e-classic/

I just got confirmation they will be selling shafts and a subframe.

There's the problem: they probably have no intention of actually selling any of these, other than as part of a complete conversion. Since they have the parts (to do the conversion), they threw together a marketing brochure for them, in case they might sell a few that way. If you need to use their shafts then they (and their cost) should be considered as part of the package, and the drive unit isn't as useful for other vehicles.

 

[brian_]

This is a CAD dwg just for size reference.
...
I’m really leaning into this solution.

It's interesting how much more robust the final drive of the Swindon-supplied unit appears to be, compared to the original Mini bits. It does look promising.

 

[pickmeup]

the guys at swindon powertrain are very clever guys, i do think 6400+ VAT is a bit pricey considering you will need to buy all the other relevant items to make it work.
Its a nice compact unit making it ideal for a mini which i have seen in the flesh at the CENEX show in the UK a couple of years back.


But as the cost of there conversion mini starts at 79K i would presume all the parts to do the conversion would be knocking on at least 30-40K?

 

[schelle63]

Hello all,
may I add some remarks:
I have converted my Mini with a 27kW-powertrain (from a Th!nk as donor car). With these 27kW I can make the front wheels spin at any time I want (sometime I fail to avoid it) from zero to approx. 60km/h. Top speed is 105km/h, because I have limited the max. rpm of the motor (AC, asynchroneous) to 10.000 1/min. Some people tell the motor can do 12.000 1/min, maybe I will try this some day. The car makes a lot of fun!


To me it appears not reasonable to install a 80kW-engine into a 680kg-Mini with a front-wheel-drive. It might make sense if you build a RWD- or AWD-car, or if you want a top speed far beyond 180km/h.
You should also consider that in order to make 80kW, the battery must provide this power; doing that without damage, it must be a big (and a heavy) one. Which might not suit to a Mini.


Sorry if this does disappoint You, it is just my opinion. After all it is up to You how to convert your Mini. I whish you success!
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