Starting work on my 1989 Mini. Thinking of keeping the original gearbox and mounting a Hyper9 motor directly on top of it. Using SilentSync sprockets and belt as a drive system. Have something similar to bdrive.ch ´s conversion in mind. But interested in using the Hyper9 9 and some Tesla modules from the get go.
If you were thinking of 8 modules to get that 20 kWh... no, that won't work, because the peak voltage at full charge would be way beyond the controller's 400 V limit. That controller limit is designed to work with typical 96S battery configurations, not the 128S of eight of those 16S LG modules.
Right - you mentioned that before, but I forgot that and assumed the usual Tesla Model S/X modules. Of course the 184 mm height of these Smart ED modules would be much more appropriate between the seats than the Model S/X module on edge. Maybe a stack of two could be tolerable...
Random thought: There's like an open block under the boot (twixt the rear subframe) that isn't the lowest part of the car, and is only blocked by the recessed battery box in the trunk. Might be a spot to get a pair of modules if they fit and if you're willing to build a box to protect them. Nice and low, and half in front of the rear axles.
ive been contemplating creating a battery box that would locate into the rear subframe, and delete the original 12v battery box thats in the boot floor.
Ive had a quote from electric classic cars in the uk as they import the LG Chem battery cells but they are far too pricey so lookign at the mitsubishi outlander battery pack or the vw hybrid battery pack.
Expanding the rear battery-box is what I did in the boot. Very easy and effective. The other pack is located under (not between) the front seats. This is somewhat tricky, but feasible.
However there is weight missing on the front axle now. In my current conversion project I am locationg one set of batteries is in the trunk.
Markus
With my old mini decades ago I threw the rear subframe away - instead I used a single bar across the back that carried the rear swinging arms and used coil over shocks with some reinforcing of the rear shock mounts - not a lot is needed the shock absorber peak loads are already higher than the spring peak loads
This gets shot of a rust monster and will give lots of space
With my old mini decades ago I threw the rear subframe away - instead I used a single bar across the back that carried the rear swinging arms and used coil over shocks with some reinforcing of the rear shock mounts - not a lot is needed the shock absorber peak loads are already higher than the spring peak loads
This gets shot of a rust monster and will give lots of space
I fitted a couple of these "beam axles" over the years and it made the rear end of the mini very skittish, hence why none of the race series currently use them.
Saying that i may look into it on the mini marcos if i can integrate the roll cage into mounting all the rear points and the large battery box im planning. But it will need properly setting up of the corner weights and me cutting and grp'ing some new rear towers in.
I started the body work process today. Just before that, I played a bit with some fast measurements for the battery placement in case I settle down for the Tesla/Smart 18650 modules. According to the measurements I found online I settled on a nice space for 6 them, would love to have 7.
First two go side to side between the driver and passenger. I will flatten out the exhaust tunnel for this. This was done in swindons mini and the final resulta does not bother me at all. I will need to find a new place for the hand brake, for the shifter a will be using buttons on the dashboard.
The second couple of modules go underneath the rear seats, laying on their tall sides. stacked on on top of the other.
The flat floor will help, I will need to modify the support for the rear bench.
Finally. As suggested by @pickmeup I tried expanding the original battery box in the back. However this long modules wouldn’t fit with out messing with the sub. For other types of modules seems like a great solution, for me I will try to place some of the other components in there (Charger maybe?). Instead I will lay two modules next to each other and place the ”bottom“ of the trunk on top of them, I should have a good amount of available space in the trunk.
one of the issues i have with the swindon powertrain conversion is the new "exhaust tunnel" as in the UK if there are any modifications to changing the bodyshell it can be subject to an IVA inspection, which is something i would like to stay well clear of.
I do think the rear battery box would be ok but i would look at strengthening the boot floor and tieing it in with the rear suspension mounts.
As my conversion is going to be on a mini marcos i have the added fun of it being made out of varying thickness GRP, so will look at building a complete rollcage with the battery boxmounts tied into it.
Scanales: You can add considerable space under the rear seats by cutting out the seat's support panel and reinstall it horizontally. You will need to ad a narrow vertical strip from left to right, and to cut out a wedge from the seat's foam. This measure is invisible, and even the rear passengers won't notice it when sitting there. I can post a picture, if required.
Markus
Scanales: You can add considerable space under the rear seats by cutting out the seat's support panel and reinstall it horizontally. You will need to ad a narrow vertical strip from left to right, and to cut out a wedge from the seat's foam. This measure is invisible, and even the rear passengers won't notice it when sitting there. I can post a picture, if required.
Markus
Thank You. Oddly enough that space is currently not used, as the car has the expanded battery tray in the trunk and a largely expanded cross-tunnel under the front seats. But some day this may be an option...
Again, remember not to make the car too light on the front. Spinning wheels are useless (ok, some people like that), I assume it is real acceleration most of us are looking for.
Regards,
Markus
I’ve been looking for different options regarding Air-conditioning? Some seem far more expensive than others. Wonder if its possible to use a unit from a Leaf. Want to be as efficient as possible. I saw a similar unit to the one below being installed in a EV Conversion in the Vintage Voltage show, however it seems really expensive.
• NOTE CURRENT LEAD TIME OF 6-8 WEEKS • All kits now include our Gen 2 Blower. The Electrocooler electric air conditioning system for Porsche 911 is a revolutionary update for the complicated A/C and ventilation setup fitted to Porsche 911 models from 1974 to 1989. The kit is a total redesign...
I’ve been looking for different options regarding Air-conditioning? Some seem far more expensive than others. Wonder if its possible to use a unit from a Leaf. Want to be as efficient as possible. I saw a similar unit to the one below being installed in a EV Conversion in the Vintage Voltage show, however it seems really expensive.
• NOTE CURRENT LEAD TIME OF 6-8 WEEKS • All kits now include our Gen 2 Blower. The Electrocooler electric air conditioning system for Porsche 911 is a revolutionary update for the complicated A/C and ventilation setup fitted to Porsche 911 models from 1974 to 1989. The kit is a total redesign...
Interesting... that one uses up to 50 amps of 12 V DC power. If the 12 V DC is coming from a DC-to-DC converter, it would seem more optimal to use the power directly a HV battery voltage; however, even 50 A @ 12 V is less power than I expected. Given that it's for a 911, and is intended to improve only on the likely marginal system in a half-century-old sports car, it might not have a lot of cooling capacity.
Does anyone have a converted car with electric air conditioning working well? I'm specifically not interested in belt-driven systems, as the complexity involved with driving them outweighs their low cost. On the high-end, it's a solved problem with a 15k+ BTU aftermarket compressor for around...
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