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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey folks, I'm looking for a Can EV small block v8 transmission adapter plate. Used is preferred. Please shoot me a message with what you have and your price. Thanks!

Jefferson

EDIT - Bought one, thanks!
 

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Can't help you.

But why not buy a plate of aluminum and make one yourself?

You can use woodworking tools on aluminum just fine, aluminum is softer than many hardwoods.

Make cardboard templates and then transfer them to the plate you want.

It's only as hard as cutting out a shape and drilling some holes in the right places. You'll probably be doing lots of that for your build anyways.
 

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Can't help you.

But why not buy a plate of aluminum and make one yourself?

You can use woodworking tools on aluminum just fine, aluminum is softer than many hardwoods.

Make cardboard templates and then transfer them to the plate you want.

It's only as hard as cutting out a shape and drilling some holes in the right places. You'll probably be doing lots of that for your build anyways.
Hello Jefferson,

I suggest that you ignore his advice. Those of us with experience and time on this board have seen the resulting failures caused by his method. Mike's Army Jeep conversion comes to mind. Broken shaft on his $3000 WarP11. I think it lasted like 2 or 3 weeks.

A precision part known to work is worth it.

Regards,

major
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have no intention of trying to make an adapter plate by hand. That's an expensive mistake, especially without a clutch.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Mike's Army Jeep conversion comes to mind. Broken shaft on his $3000 WarP11.
Jesus. Got a link?

How badly misaligned was the shaft?

I've seen lots of EV projects where people built their own adapter plates. Seemed to me like everyone who got through the process made it work.
 

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That's the right thread, but it doesn't go directly to the relevant posts:
discovery of broken shaft in #27 and major's analysis of failure in #43
new shaft adapter in #149 and modified housing adapter plate in #156
(followed by a discussion of why these are still junk)
design of proper adapter plate in #176
another new hub and the new adapter plate being machined in #191, installed in #196 and finally complete in #213
 

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Hey folks, I'm looking for a Can EV small block v8 transmission adapter plate. Used is preferred. Please shoot me a message with what you have and your price. Thanks!

Jefferson

Do you have a picture of the transmission/ bellhousing you want this to go on?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Do you have a picture of the transmission/ bellhousing you want this to go on?
It's in the shed; I'll be pulling it out in the morning and I can snap some pictures. It's a 3.03 out of my old mustang when I upgraded to a T5. I figured I'd use it in my current swap, since it gives me the most flexibility in the future - and I already have it XD
 

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Hey folks, I'm looking for a Can EV small block v8 transmission adapter plate.
Since the title says "Ford Small Block", can I assume that this is the late Windsor pattern? I don't have an adapter; I'm just trying to help clarify which pattern is desired.

It's in the shed; I'll be pulling it out in the morning and I can snap some pictures. It's a 3.03 out of my old mustang when I upgraded to a T5.
So this would presumably be a Ford Toploader three-speed. It looks like these all have bolt-on bellhousings, and you presumably have a late Windsor pattern bellhousing (for a 200 or 289 in a Mustang) not used with the T5 and leftover on the Toploader, but it would be possible to get a different bellhousing (although aftermarket bellhousings cost hundreds of dollars so they wouldn't make any sense) and thus use a different adapter.

CanEV only lists one "Ford V8" adapter... hopefully that's the right one. CanEV doesn't list which engine/transmission combinations this fits, but publishes a identification diagram to check.
 

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10 seconds of google:
*sigh*. I tried a bunch of combinations with both usernames, jeep, and other specifics. Honest, came up dry.

Interesting.

Mike points out a few things:
- His adapter plate was a ring welded to steel plates, made by a high schooler without attention to precision.
- His motor was, at times, unsupported, cantilevering all the weight (which would bend the shaft back and forth like a bow). The other times it was on a drop down anchor from the underside of the battery bank (lead acid batteries, was probably flexing).
- He used a rigid connection rather than a lovejoy or other flexible coupler
- He had removed the clutch plate, which had some give to it (same as OP here though).
- His coupler itself had broken a few times, was made out of a a coupler welded to a pipe.
- The people who did his conversion botched every part of it, attempted to scam Netgain for $50,000 of motors, etc. General incompetence.

(He blogs about it here: https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=103856&postcount=27 )

*shrugs*

In recent example, Damien has done his own using a 20mm scrap alum plate, without a clutch plate: https://youtu.be/PyG--nrFdPM?list=PLPHK4T9kKEyYxfC-4Jk70D6IfFSwsJQlh&t=447 .. and says he does this often.

Anyway, JBman says he's not interested so, I guess that's that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Since the title says "Ford Small Block", can I assume that this is the late Windsor pattern? I don't have an adapter; I'm just trying to help clarify which pattern is desired.


So this would presumably be a Ford Toploader three-speed. It looks like these all have bolt-on bellhousings, and you presumably have late Windsor pattern bellhousing (for a 200 or 289 in a Mustang) not used with the T5 and leftover, but it would be possible to get a different bellhousing (although aftermarket bellhousings cost hundreds of dollars so they wouldn't make any sense) and thus use a different adapter.

CanEV only lists one "Ford V8" adapter... hopefully that's the right one. CanEV doesn't liset which engine/transmission combinations this fits, but publishes a identification diagram to check.
Yeah, Windsor. I upgraded to a t5z for the overdrive. The bolt pattern was the same for both bell housings. I believe the 302 was originally out of a '68 Torino. I'll have to look at it.
 

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In recent example, Damien has done his own using a 20mm scrap alum plate, without a clutch plate: https://youtu.be/PyG--nrFdPM?list=PLPHK4T9kKEyYxfC-4Jk70D6IfFSwsJQlh&t=447 .. and says he does this often.

Damien is good at software and electronics, but he's way off (sorry for the pun) as far as alignment issues related to adapter plates. Most people think that the adapter plate can be just thrown on to the trans. and be aligned by the combination of the mounting bolts and the trans. input shaft.


Unfortunately for the casual DIYer, the operational centerline of the trans. input shaft and the centerline of the electric motor(or engine in the case of an ICE) shaft must be aligned within less than 0.003 - 0.005 inches (~0.08 -0.13mm) for the trans. to work properly. Gears, bearings, and shafts can be destroyed, otherwise. This is very difficult to achieve with the aforementioned throw-on mounting technique.


OEMs typically use snug fitting, precision located alignment dowels between the ICE and the trans. And, also why good, legit electric motor adapter plate suppliers and well designed DIY plate builders have snug fitting, precision located alignment dowels or other precision alignment features on their plates. Check them out. To not have this precision alignment, is asking for trouble.
 

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if you are going with an adapter plate.... it needs to be made by a machine shop you trust. Precision measurements , and a quality mill with rotary table to get alignment dowels correct and shafts centered within .005" if you expect things to last.

retaining a clutch does help soak up a little misalignment, provide much more timely shifts between gears, and provides another safety disconnect in case of 'runaway' controller. You can remove starter ring from flywheel and have a shop cut it down to minimum, or switch to aluminum to minimize weight. In my eMiata I upgraded to a stage 2 clutch to prevent any slipping under heavy acceleration... which did the trick for a Warp9 pulling 1000amps with 160v nominal battery pack.

My stock eMiata '94 transmission gave up a while back (because the transmission shop did not fully engage the position dowels and misaligned after replacing the clutch), so I 'upgraded' to a rebuilt 'race ready' '99 transmission that can handle probably 300ft# torque. Miata adaptor plates are available off the shelf, so you MIGHT consider that?

If you are looking at 400+ft# torque, you might consider the solution EVWest came up with.... a modified Powerglide w/o torque converter and a little pump to keep gears engaged at low rpm. very nice, but $5k, which is double what you will spend for a quality adapter and rebuilt transmission.

I was looking around for a small-block transmission adaptor plate that could handle 300-400ft# or so, and didn't find anything off the shelf to transplant into my next project... so post your results if you find one!
 

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Hey guys,
I am considering doing a VW buggy and was thinking of making a custom plate for my motor to the VW transaxle. Do you have to Ben this precise with a VW transaxle??
ANy advice is appreciated!
Thanks
 

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You really do need to have this level of precision with the old VW transaxles and most other transmissions, for that matter. The good news is that VW uses a simple machined circular register and step to align the parts. This is relatively easy to machine onto an adapter plate with a big enough lathe. And, maybe in the same machining operation, machine some kind of register hole or step to mount the electric motor and/or spacers concentric with the transaxle step on the plate. This attention to good alignment is what it is all about, after all!
 

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Hey guys,
I am considering doing a VW buggy and was thinking of making a custom plate for my motor to the VW transaxle. Do you have to Ben this precise with a VW transaxle??
ANy advice is appreciated!
Thanks



VWBug adaptors are 'off the shelf' available from CanEV and resold by others.
 
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