If you can't find a spot to fit it on your bike and you can figure out how to adjust the voltage I may buy it from you for another project I have.
Zapino Zap - rebuild
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I'm still wrangling with the seller. Just yesterday they told me they are the factory store for these chargers. They have been steadfast that they can't be adjusted and yet it is a fact that the output voltage is set according to what the buyer specifies (plus what they decide you need). AKA...obviously settable! I sent them that picture of the PIC controller. They know that I know that the charger can be changed. I have purchased a PICKit3 PIC programmer and they know this too. I have demanded 2 things from them. The first is the uncompiled code they put in the micro controller. The second is fixed compiled firmware set to 82v.
They told me that charging LION to 4.2v is perfectly OK and that I should "trust them about this". I had to laugh! Obviously they have never looked at the discharge curves for LION cells. Obviously they have never read a single white paper about how charging LION to 4.2 volts shortens their life span! Really folks? "Trust you" when you've lied to me repeatedly and NOT done what I asked for???
I have to wonder how sooo much drama comes my way! On this EV, Nucular has been an ongoing mess for a year now and now this! HOW HARD would it have been to just set the output voltage to what I specified?
This charger is still getting tested. I don't want to sell it if its not working right. The EV just got fully charged the day this one arrived. It has seen some small use at 3 amps so far. I have bought a bunch of parts so I can make a beefy splitter for my drier outlet. This will get me 220v charging and the full 30 amps. I'll post those results once that is all set up. I sure hope that is real! Charging at 9 amps with my current charger takes way too long.
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291 Posts
I bought the electrical parts to make a drier outlet splitter. I could have bought one, but where's the fun in that?! This is a bit dangerous to do I suppose if you have someone around that doesn't know what you are doing. I "adapted" a 220v drier chord to a 110v female plug so I can use a standard extension chord from the drier to where the scooter sits for charging. From there, the water proof charger can run on 110v or 220v. Now I have 220v at the charger on a bright red extension cord. No one lives with me so I'm not overly worried about someone accidentally plugging into this 220v circuit with a 110v device. With the cord being red, that's a big clue for me if I were to get absent minded for some reason. I put it on the floor for the picture, but just in case the washer were to leak, this isn't its home. There's very little chance the drier and charging will be running at the same time so I'm not worried about over loading the circuit and it does have its own breaker.
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291 Posts
I'm just going to throw this out there...
Why do I get screwed over so often?! Am I too trusting or not demanding enough before I buy?
Avoid this seller! They refuse to fix what they did. I've opened a dispute with aliexpress against them.
The folks at Shenzhen Facewell Batteries Store have boned me yet again!
1. They set the output voltage too high so I have to watch charging to make sure I don't over charge my 82v pack.
2. Now I have the charger on a 220v, 30 amp circuit and the damned thing doesn't charge at 30 amps like they told me!!!
This is the best I have seen. All 3 BMS's, clamp on amp meter and this watt meter all read almost identical current. NOT remotely close to 30 amps! FUCK!!!
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Why do I get screwed over so often?! Am I too trusting or not demanding enough before I buy?
Avoid this seller! They refuse to fix what they did. I've opened a dispute with aliexpress against them.
Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
The folks at Shenzhen Facewell Batteries Store have boned me yet again!
1. They set the output voltage too high so I have to watch charging to make sure I don't over charge my 82v pack.
2. Now I have the charger on a 220v, 30 amp circuit and the damned thing doesn't charge at 30 amps like they told me!!!
This is the best I have seen. All 3 BMS's, clamp on amp meter and this watt meter all read almost identical current. NOT remotely close to 30 amps! FUCK!!!
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291 Posts
Still fighting with the dipshits at Shenzhen Facewell Batteries Store! All they need to do is get me corrected firmware and I go away. This is soooo easy for them to fix and they refuse. The store is the official sales front for the manufacturer. This is sooo easy to fix! I filed a dispute with aliexpress (my first ever in 4 years of purchases) and that has netted me a $76 refund/decision in my favor. I still have an incorrectly functioning charger that needs corrected firmware so I refused the partial refund. I've been telling them to get me fixed firmware or refund me 100% of my money. They have done neither.
I'm done with this stupidity! Now I'll go to paypal and file a dispute for the entire transaction. You jsut DON"T put metal inside someones charger, set the voltage and current wrong and use a broken plug without people getting a little miffed about getting screwed over! Time to stop arguing with an impossible seller and make them eat the cost of the charger!!! Not how I wanted this to go, but I created none of this situation and am just responding to it as it deserves. Sigh!
I guess it is up to me to hack the PIC microcontroller since the factory store won't give me what I need.
I'm done with this stupidity! Now I'll go to paypal and file a dispute for the entire transaction. You jsut DON"T put metal inside someones charger, set the voltage and current wrong and use a broken plug without people getting a little miffed about getting screwed over! Time to stop arguing with an impossible seller and make them eat the cost of the charger!!! Not how I wanted this to go, but I created none of this situation and am just responding to it as it deserves. Sigh!
I guess it is up to me to hack the PIC microcontroller since the factory store won't give me what I need.
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291 Posts
The dip shits at Nucular after 1.5 years FINALLY released new firmware! It took them long enough! They fixed quite a few bugs that I had reported to them as far back as August 2020. There's a number of new behaviors that I have yet to understand that may or may not be bugs. There is a menu of features that has never worked and now they display little icons on the LCD when various states occur. Some are warnings and others are just status. The icons display for just a second so you better be staring at the LCD all the time or you will miss them!
I installed the new firmware on my controllers. Many settings were lost and others were preserved. IF you do this firmware upgrade, it takes several minutes to install the controller firmware. Upgrade your controllers first and then the LCD firmware. It happened to both of my controllers that once they were updated, the LCD could no longer access them until it was updated too. I needed to unplug the LCD so it would reset and reconnect to the controllers.
The October 2021 firmware did help with motor stuttering, but it didn't solve it:
1. I've gone from 160 phase amps to 200 phase amps before stuttering occurs. This has improved acceleration. Stuttering is FAR from gone! Anything over 200 phase amps and I'm back at stuttering again.
2. There's some new hall options and maybe they will help with stuttering.
3. I'm still running on my heavily modded PIDS and I should try setting them back to factory and see if that helps. I wanted to leave as much the same as before to see what improved or didn't improve.
4. I need much less of a running start to get up my 12" ramp. It used to take 5 or 6 inches of rolling under power to get going enough to make it up the short ramp. It's about 1 inch now and still wont get moving at the base of the ramp from a dead stop.
5. Taking off from a stop on the road is improved, but instant torque is definitely NOT what I would call it.
6. I haven't tried top speed yet, but I expect that is unchanged.
I installed the new firmware on my controllers. Many settings were lost and others were preserved. IF you do this firmware upgrade, it takes several minutes to install the controller firmware. Upgrade your controllers first and then the LCD firmware. It happened to both of my controllers that once they were updated, the LCD could no longer access them until it was updated too. I needed to unplug the LCD so it would reset and reconnect to the controllers.
The October 2021 firmware did help with motor stuttering, but it didn't solve it:
1. I've gone from 160 phase amps to 200 phase amps before stuttering occurs. This has improved acceleration. Stuttering is FAR from gone! Anything over 200 phase amps and I'm back at stuttering again.
2. There's some new hall options and maybe they will help with stuttering.
3. I'm still running on my heavily modded PIDS and I should try setting them back to factory and see if that helps. I wanted to leave as much the same as before to see what improved or didn't improve.
4. I need much less of a running start to get up my 12" ramp. It used to take 5 or 6 inches of rolling under power to get going enough to make it up the short ramp. It's about 1 inch now and still wont get moving at the base of the ramp from a dead stop.
5. Taking off from a stop on the road is improved, but instant torque is definitely NOT what I would call it.
6. I haven't tried top speed yet, but I expect that is unchanged.
So does it do wheelies now or what?
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291 Posts
I wish! I think the EV or me would need to lose weight for that.
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291 Posts
It took a while to unpackage the sections of mobility packs again. I'll be getting them pulled apart down to the cells soon. All the others I already harvested have been tested and this batch will get tested too. It was good to test them. I found 6 that tested 2700mah or less. All the others tested much higher.
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291 Posts
This one layer's thermal glue is cured. I can spot weld it at any time.
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Those sections that used to be the under floor pack are all taken apart. I need to clean up the small sections of nickel still spot welded to most of the cells. After that, test to find any that have low capacities.
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Those sections that used to be the under floor pack are all taken apart. I need to clean up the small sections of nickel still spot welded to most of the cells. After that, test to find any that have low capacities.
Joined
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291 Posts
Bottom side of the first bank is welded together. I have a bowl of water in the upper right corner. The weld probes get so hot I can't hold them anymore so they go in the water to cool down again. This is the only reason I stop spot welding. I'm pushing a lot of current at 100 joules to get good welds with .3mm nickel. The silicon wires get pretty hot too. The other 2 banks won't have that separate section welded independently on the right.
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