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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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If you can't find a spot to fit it on your bike and you can figure out how to adjust the voltage I may buy it from you for another project I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
If you can't find a spot to fit it on your bike and you can figure out how to adjust the voltage I may buy it from you for another project I have.
I'm still wrangling with the seller. Just yesterday they told me they are the factory store for these chargers. They have been steadfast that they can't be adjusted and yet it is a fact that the output voltage is set according to what the buyer specifies (plus what they decide you need). AKA...obviously settable! I sent them that picture of the PIC controller. They know that I know that the charger can be changed. I have purchased a PICKit3 PIC programmer and they know this too. I have demanded 2 things from them. The first is the uncompiled code they put in the micro controller. The second is fixed compiled firmware set to 82v.

They told me that charging LION to 4.2v is perfectly OK and that I should "trust them about this". I had to laugh! Obviously they have never looked at the discharge curves for LION cells. Obviously they have never read a single white paper about how charging LION to 4.2 volts shortens their life span! Really folks? "Trust you" when you've lied to me repeatedly and NOT done what I asked for???

I have to wonder how sooo much drama comes my way! On this EV, Nucular has been an ongoing mess for a year now and now this! HOW HARD would it have been to just set the output voltage to what I specified?

This charger is still getting tested. I don't want to sell it if its not working right. The EV just got fully charged the day this one arrived. It has seen some small use at 3 amps so far. I have bought a bunch of parts so I can make a beefy splitter for my drier outlet. This will get me 220v charging and the full 30 amps. I'll post those results once that is all set up. I sure hope that is real! Charging at 9 amps with my current charger takes way too long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I bought the electrical parts to make a drier outlet splitter. I could have bought one, but where's the fun in that?! This is a bit dangerous to do I suppose if you have someone around that doesn't know what you are doing. I "adapted" a 220v drier chord to a 110v female plug so I can use a standard extension chord from the drier to where the scooter sits for charging. From there, the water proof charger can run on 110v or 220v. Now I have 220v at the charger on a bright red extension cord. No one lives with me so I'm not overly worried about someone accidentally plugging into this 220v circuit with a 110v device. With the cord being red, that's a big clue for me if I were to get absent minded for some reason. I put it on the floor for the picture, but just in case the washer were to leak, this isn't its home. There's very little chance the drier and charging will be running at the same time so I'm not worried about over loading the circuit and it does have its own breaker.

 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
Minor fiddly change on the Zap...

There has been a small issue with how I wired in the DC-DC from a long time ago. I thought I'd leave it be as it wasn't bothering me enough at the time to fix. I finally got annoyed with it so Monday I started and Tuesday night I finished fixing it.

The way I wired things, I had a 1K resistor across the key switch for precharge to the DC-DC. With the key off, this allowed the DC-DC to slowly charge. About once a second the watt meters and anything else on 12v would turn on briefly and then the DC-DC would lose power again, charge via the resistor and do it again. To stop this, I'd open the breaker to the DC-DC. Now that's fixed. The DC-DC now has 82v direct through the breaker applied to it all the time. The precharge resistor is moved to across the breaker. Only the enable line for the DC-DC goes to the key switch now. The DC-DC no longer pulses on and off over and over again anymore. It just stays off until I enable it. I think that's the last niggling issue I had.

The V4 torque arms are doing great. No issues at all with them stretching or deforming. YIPEE!

Since I had cowlings off to fix the DC-DC issue, I tried to fit the water proof charger on board. There's just no space large enough to mount it. I did go for the largest unit I could find...so I suppose that's my fault! I'm still sitting at 77v from my last charge. Charging at the full 30 amps has not happened. I really need to get the pack voltage down more. I'm riding about 6 miles every other day so my capacity is not going down very quickly. I think I'll keep this one for use on the XM3500 which is lots larger and see about finding a smaller charger for the Zap. That means lower charge amps. At least it will be on board and I'll be able to use public charging locations.

I want to add more lights to it. From the side, in the dark it is not very visible. The head light and tail light do almost nothing from the sides. The tail light can be replaced with something that has side lights in it. I want to add some LED strips in a few strategic locations at the front sides. While in there, I also want to add a couple of XML2 head lights I made a while ago that shine from around the front wheel area to make more light out the front. I think I have that mostly worked out and jsut need to make a mounting bracket for them. The head light is fine, but more is better! All of this, will require removing only the front cowling and that's pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
I'm just going to throw this out there...
Why do I get screwed over so often?! Am I too trusting or not demanding enough before I buy?

Avoid this seller! They refuse to fix what they did. I've opened a dispute with aliexpress against them.


The folks at Shenzhen Facewell Batteries Store have boned me yet again!
1. They set the output voltage too high so I have to watch charging to make sure I don't over charge my 82v pack.
2. Now I have the charger on a 220v, 30 amp circuit and the damned thing doesn't charge at 30 amps like they told me!!!

This is the best I have seen. All 3 BMS's, clamp on amp meter and this watt meter all read almost identical current. NOT remotely close to 30 amps! FUCK!!!

 
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