[GE11]

Hello everyone,

I have a Zillla 1K that I bought about 8 months back. It has the typical Error code 1132 where the hair ball will not communicate with the Controller. I have been reading several different posts on this issue. What did people do to actually resolve the issue? I am reading that the issue is actually with the Hair ball. What is the hair ball was actually fixed?

Does anyone know Otmar Ebenhoech 's email maybe he will share what to do to fix this. This seems like a common failure.

 

[onegreenev]

Hello everyone,

I have a Zillla 1K that I bought about 8 months back. It has the typical Error code 1132 where the hair ball will not communicate with the Controller. I have been reading several different posts on this issue. What did people do to actually resolve the issue? I am reading that the issue is actually with the Hair ball. What is the hair ball was actually fixed?

Does anyone know Otmar Ebenhoech 's email maybe he will share what to do to fix this. This seems like a common failure.

Manzanita Micro is building these now and should have that information for those with older controllers and hairballs. Still have not checked out mine. Im going full on AC Induction Motors. The only DC motors Im keeping are the old Starter/Generator Motors. I have plans to use them as generators with my little Diesel engine. It will not be till next year that I get them together to ship out. I have been awful busy with work and new positions in the private union at work. Not much time for actual EV work. Still on the burner but the burner has gotten rather cold.

 

[GE11]

Manzanita Micro is building these now and should have that information for those with older controllers and hairballs. Still have not checked out mine. Im going full on AC Induction Motors. The only DC motors Im keeping are the old Starter/Generator Motors. I have plans to use them as generators with my little Diesel engine. It will not be till next year that I get them together to ship out. I have been awful busy with work and new positions in the private union at work. Not much time for actual EV work. Still on the burner but the burner has gotten rather cold.

Hey man your back!!

You have been missed!

Are ready to sell me that GE motor for the Bradley GT that you promised me a year ago?? You remember the one a VW Beetle transaxle?

 

[onegreenev]

Yes, Been quite busy. Working towards retirement so Im plowing my home payment down to nothing and getting things lined up for my photography studio all the while working full time. Covid hasn't helped much either. Even though I work with Covid patients daily I have yet to get sick and safety protocols are not that strict either. So that is really a non issue at this point. So yes, Im back. I just order me a an AC-35 motor and two 144v controllers for them. Im going to make my little vw roadster a twin stacked motor beast. 165 hp and 177ft lbs torque at 5000 rpm. So I have things to get rid of as well. Im keeping my AC-50 and 550 amp controller but all my DC stuff is going except my starter/generator motors. I also have my Raymond AC Induction motor Im going to try again to get working using the 550 amp Curtis inverter for the AC-50. Im keeping that stacked motor adapter for the VW. It has a floating clutch disk pressure plate and flywheel so I can hook up the torque with little effort.


I will have a 144v Curtis series motor controller, two Warp9 motors and the Zilla 1k for sale. I will try to connect up the Zilla and be sure it is all working as it is supposed to be working. I may make a Warp9 and Zilla kit for someone. A Warp9 and Curtis kit for someone. No adapter plates.

 

[GE11]

Yes, Been quite busy. Working towards retirement so Im plowing my home payment down to nothing and getting things lined up for my photography studio all the while working full time. Covid hasn't helped much either. Even though I work with Covid patients daily I have yet to get sick and safety protocols are not that strict either. So that is really a non issue at this point. So yes, Im back. I just order me a an AC-35 motor and two 144v controllers for them. Im going to make my little vw roadster a twin stacked motor beast. 165 hp and 177ft lbs torque at 5000 rpm. So I have things to get rid of as well. Im keeping my AC-50 and 550 amp controller but all my DC stuff is going except my starter/generator motors. I also have my Raymond AC Induction motor Im going to try again to get working using the 550 amp Curtis inverter for the AC-50. Im keeping that stacked motor adapter for the VW. It has a floating clutch disk pressure plate and flywheel so I can hook up the torque with little effort.


I will have a 144v Curtis series motor controller, two Warp9 motors and the Zilla 1k for sale. I will try to connect up the Zilla and be sure it is all working as it is supposed to be working. I may make a Warp9 and Zilla kit for someone. A Warp9 and Curtis kit for someone. No adapter plates.

Well Man if you have not gotten sick from COVID by now, then you are immune to it and you most likely will not get sick... If you work with COVID you have had COVID but just didn't know it... You seem like you will be ok .
But talking about the motors what about the 9 inch GE motor for VW transaxle we made a deal on last time... I sent you an email about it. We made a deal a year ago on it and I was going to send you the money and you disappeared. I hope you have not forgotten I sure have not I have been looking forward to it. When can we finish the deal?

thanks

 

[onegreenev]

Well Man if you have not gotten sick from COVID by now, then you are immune to it and you most likely will not get sick... If you work with COVID you have had COVID but just didn't know it... You seem like you will be ok .
But talking about the motors what about the 9 inch GE motor for VW transaxle we made a deal on last time... I sent you an email about it. We made a deal a year ago on it and I was going to send you the money and you disappeared. I hope you have not forgotten I sure have not I have been looking forward to it. When can we finish the deal?

thanks

I have not forgotten about the motor. It is still sitting in the same spot it was a year ago. I finally figured out a good platform for shipping. I can get started on that right away. I'll let you know and take pictures and get them to you.

gottdi @ g mail

Shoot me another email. Im using my old email I used to use here.

 

[GE11]

I have not forgotten about the motor. It is still sitting in the same spot it was a year ago. I finally figured out a good platform for shipping. I can get started on that right away. I'll let you know and take pictures and get them to you.

gottdi @ g mail

Shoot me another email. Im using my old email I used to use here.

Email sent!

 

[seatosummit]

Sorry to hijack this thread, but it seems like you are both either currently or soon to be selling Zilla 1K controllers.

I currently have a Curtis 350A controller in my EV conversion and I find it really restrictive, especially when I need to pass others in traffic. It is an alarming sensation when you put your foot into the accelerator and the vehicle does not move.

I have 8 Enerdel 14.4V nominal modules in series for a 115V nominal pack. My understanding is that I need the LV Zilla controller.

GE11, I am an EE with extensive experience in communications protocols and signal processing, so I am not afraid to dig into the controller if it is out of warranty.

Onegreenev, I would be interested to hear what you have available, also. My current EV is a 92 GTI, but I also have a '73 914 that I am looking to convert, which I notice you also have.

Thanks!

Austin

 

[remy_martian]

edit: answering AUSTIN

Your problem is most likely back EMF, not the controller, Mr EE. You need a higher voltage pack from the sounds of it.

 

[onegreenev]

Sorry to hijack this thread, but it seems like you are both either currently or soon to be selling Zilla 1K controllers.

I currently have a Curtis 350A controller in my EV conversion and I find it really restrictive, especially when I need to pass others in traffic. It is an alarming sensation when you put your foot into the accelerator and the vehicle does not move.

I have 8 Enerdel 14.4V nominal modules in series for a 115V nominal pack. My understanding is that I need the LV Zilla controller.

GE11, I am an EE with extensive experience in communications protocols and signal processing, so I am not afraid to dig into the controller if it is out of warranty.

Onegreenev, I would be interested to hear what you have available, also. My current EV is a 92 GTI, but I also have a '73 914 that I am looking to convert, which I notice you also have.

Thanks!

Austin

I did not convert the 914 but the person I purchased it from did. Thankfully I did buy it because last year the previous owner lost his entire home and property to the California Fires. Had this vehicle still been there it would have been a burnt out hulk at this time. It survived. I want to just work on my Bug, Bus and Buggy so the 914 will eventually go. If someone locally wants it for a reasonable price without the electrics I'll strip the electrics out and keep the full kit and sell it to put into a Bug. It would be a good fit for a bug. The Zilla 1K I have is being considered to be sold. I know they are expensive new. The Zilla I have is the HV model. I am needing the computer software for configuring the controller. I was considering using it in my Buggy but now Im not sure.

 

[seatosummit]

edit: answering AUSTIN

Your problem is most likely back EMF, not the controller, Mr EE. You need a higher voltage pack from the sounds of it.

Hey @remy_martian -

I appreciate the input. I should have further caveated my declaration of EE-dom with the fact that I primary work on PCB design and industrial automation. Motors of any sort are all new to me...

I will do some research on back EMF and see how it sounds to the symptoms I am experiencing with the Warp.

Thanks!

 

[seatosummit]

I did not convert the 914 but the person I purchased it from did. Thankfully I did buy it because last year the previous owner lost his entire home and property to the California Fires. Had this vehicle still been there it would have been a burnt out hulk at this time. It survived. I want to just work on my Bug, Bus and Buggy so the 914 will eventually go. If someone locally wants it for a reasonable price without the electrics I'll strip the electrics out and keep the full kit and sell it to put into a Bug. It would be a good fit for a bug. The Zilla 1K I have is being considered to be sold. I know they are expensive new. The Zilla I have is the HV model. I am needing the computer software for configuring the controller. I was considering using it in my Buggy but now Im not sure.

Glad to hear you were able to save the 914! I know my fair share of people that have lost a lot to fires out here, also.

So I am getting progressively closer to pulling the electric drive components from my GTI and swapping them into my 914. For now, I intend to keep the eight Enerdel 4S8P modules with Orion BMS, Curtis 500A controller, and Warp 9. I do however want to make some provisions now to allow for easy incremental upgrading as technology evolves.

I still need an adapter plate and coupler for the conversion. I noticed that you had mentioned you had one from Thunderstruck that you indicated would fit. Is that still available? If so, I would be interested in buying it!

Thanks for your help,
Austin

 

[remy_martian]

That's a pretty long run. You might try doubling up on those conduit cables. First see what kind of voltage sag you get at the controller when you floor it. Then measure the sag at the rear pack to see how it proportions.

 

[seatosummit]

That's a pretty long run. You might try doubling up on those conduit cables. First see what kind of voltage sag you get at the controller when you floor it. Then measure the sag at the rear pack to see how it proportions.

@remy_martian
A great idea.
Do you have a particular technique for measuring voltage when floored? I’m envisioning some temporary cabling run into the cab to a multimeter.

lots of more accurate, but considerably more labor-intensive alternatives, I suppose too.

 

[remy_martian]

I seem to recall seeing bluetooth multimeter probes, lol.

Cheapass camera/disposable cell colocated with a meter you don't care about might work.

An actual galvanometer movement vs sampled DVM might be a better choice?

You can always go long leads like you said.

 

[seatosummit]

I seem to recall seeing bluetooth multimeter probes, lol.

Cheapass camera/disposable cell colocated with a meter you don't care about might work.

An actual galvanometer movement vs sampled DVM might be a better choice?

You can always go long leads like you said.

Ha! Love the idea of the camera.

I actually have a couple bluetooth multimeters on order for work...unfortunately I think they are still a few months out. Interesting product though. Particularly the o-scope piece. Considerably more portable even than my pico-scope. and tolerant of up 600V. PokitPro

So long as the sampling rate is sub 100ms I think DVM should work OK, but you are right that two galvanometers moving might be easier to analyze in realtime. I might be able to leverage existing features of the Orion BMS already in the vehicle. I'll see what I can come up with.

@remy_martian any leads on an air-cooled adapter plate/coupling for sale? I know @onegreenev mentioned a Thunderstruck unit, but that was several months ago, so it might be gone.

Thanks guys.