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Discussion Starter #1
Hi:

I have a car with (8) 4S3P batteries from an e-golf. The Zivan NG3 charger is set up for lead acid, 156v right now but I want it to work with my LiPo batteries. Seems CC/CV threshold would be 134.4v. I was told this charger can _probably_ do it. I know the charger works: I have hooked it up, watching closely until each pack gets close to the 16.8v and unplugging, but this is not safe or right.

Seems it was made for Optima Yellow Top batteries. I've been told by reliable sources I _should_ be able to adjust to work with my setup but can't be sure.

Case of my NG3:
zivan2.jpg
zivan1.jpg


Adjuster board
2019-05-25 13.43.12.jpg
2019-05-25 13.42.12.jpg

I understand the U pot adjusts voltage and I is current. As I understand adjustment procedure is turn U until red charging light turns to yellow at the set voltage. That sets the CC/CV transition point but please correct me if I am wrong.

Electric Conversions in Sacramento said they can do the job for $75 but I have read mixed things here on their quality, turnaround times and customer service.

You can see this one has the jumper setup instead of the switch. But what position does what?

Thanks in Advance!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So I've been getting a lot of help on this from @green_caveman and I think I finally got it dialed in.

Basically I switched out R20 from a 560k to a 470k to get the charger "in range". Then hooking a load up to the battery output (a 100w light bulb). Then I could adjust the U pot down to the 134.4v level I needed for my setup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Nb-YBAlWiA

I get a red led, then a blinking red, then blinking yellow. Seems to be just slightly above the 134.4v level (134.6v maybe) at the blinking yellow stage. So I'm happy for now but looking forward to getting the programmable board to give it some more adjustability and maybe telemetry output to a monitor.
 

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Thanks for posting this. I am Trying to charge my LG chem batteries to about 131.2 So I wonder if this same resistor will work for my zivan ng3. I also wonder if I can send my charger in and get it to pump out more amps. So you can leave it plugged in all night and the charger will not blow up your batteries? Do you use a bms?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I recommend searching for all the other articles on how to properly adjust your Zivan charger. Depending on its configuration the procedure might be different. This worked for me.

I don't have a BMS yet. Its me and my multimeter being vigilant.
 

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I'm still wondering why, with a 560k resistor you couldn't hit the 134V mark. I feel that the range should have been about 130V to 225V .

Or was it that the charger didn't start because it didn't see a pack? The initial voltage would have been lower than the minimum 130.

470k should start at about 105V.

BTW, on the very limited number of chargers that I've seen, R21 was either missing or the same as R20. I'm also not sure why those are such huge resistors. If it's just part of a divider for voltage measurement there shouldn't be much current.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't exactly know since I didn't try the "light bulb as a load" trick while the 560k was in there. I should have. I just slowly turned the pot and expected the charge phase to change, and it didn't, and didn't want to put too much voltage into the batteries any longer than a minute.

I am just very glad it is charging now!
 

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Hey what company did you trust to buy this resistor from. I am pretty sure I am going to try the same procedure with my zivan ng3 that came from a corbin sparrow. It seems a little different though to all the other zivan ng3's I look at. There is no selector switch. think I got the board though. It just flashes red and beeps really loud when it's all plugged together from my 110v house outlet and to my lg chem cells. Still gotta try the light bulb trick.
 

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Hey what company did you trust to buy this resistor from. I am pretty sure I am going to try the same procedure with my zivan ng3 that came from a corbin sparrow. It seems a little different though to all the other zivan ng3's I look at. There is no selector switch. think I got the board though. It just flashes red and beeps really loud when it's all plugged together from my 110v house outlet and to my lg chem cells. Still gotta try the light bulb trick.
Any pictures?
 

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Hi:

I have a car with (8) 4S3P batteries from an e-golf. The Zivan NG3 charger is set up for lead acid, 156v right now but I want it to work with my LiPo batteries. Seems CC/CV threshold would be 134.4v. I was told this charger can _probably_ do it. I know the charger works: I have hooked it up, watching closely until each pack gets close to the 16.8v and unplugging, but this is not safe or right.

Seems it was made for Optima Yellow Top batteries. I've been told by reliable sources I _should_ be able to adjust to work with my setup but can't be sure.

Case of my NG3:
View attachment 112961
View attachment 112963


Adjuster board
View attachment 112965
View attachment 112967

I understand the U pot adjusts voltage and I is current. As I understand adjustment procedure is turn U until red charging light turns to yellow at the set voltage. That sets the CC/CV transition point but please correct me if I am wrong.

Electric Conversions in Sacramento said they can do the job for $75 but I have read mixed things here on their quality, turnaround times and customer service.

You can see this one has the jumper setup instead of the switch. But what position does what?

Thanks in Advance!!
Thanks!! We buy a ng3 charger configurated to 26S and now we build 30S battery... Now with your post we will reuse our zivan NG3 :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ended up getting a ThunderStruck charger since I needed faster charging and 220v support. My Zivan was 110v only (unless I hacked that too) and I get 15a of charging now.
 

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Here I am … another one converting from Lead-acid to Lithium … Chevy Volt set, in my case. I have rewired the set for 180V (two strings, 48 cells each). The charger is an NG3 220VAC input and it is currently programmed for 156V lead acid set. I am trying to set it to have a final voltage of 197V. I know the charger can make that voltage because I remember it going above 200V in equalizing phase for lead acid. By using the U trim pot I can dial in the constant voltage point (the point where red LED switches from solid ON to flashing). However, once it goes to yellow LED stage (equalizing) I can't seem to get it to stop charging at any particular voltage. I tried charging/discharging cycles and patiently tried tweaking the U pot, but the final point (voltage) just seems inconsistent. So, I've decided to not rely on the charger to stop automatically. I am going to dial the constant voltage phase to happen somewhere at 190V (if I can go that high) and then use my battery controller (arduino Due that monitors cell voltages through BMS slaves and CAN) to stop the charge at 197V. So, here are my questions:

What would be the best way to control the charger to stop the charge? I would like to avoid having to use a big relay to turn off AC power.

One way I can think of is to short the \RESET pin (pin 11) of the ST62T25 microcontroller to its COM. Is there a better way? Or, another way for redundancy?

Does anyone know what exactly are the functions of jumpers? I imagine it may differ based on firmware versions and changes over the years.

BTW, I am not sure of the vintage of my charger, but it is very likely from around 2009 - it has SMT components on the control board.

I have seen people talking about a set of wires that can control a relay inside the charger which can turn the output ON/OFF. My charger doesn't have that set of wires. I wonder if anyone knows where exactly those wires come from and whether I could add them.

I also know that I could probably have Zivan USA (or whatever the name of the outfit that can replace the MCU and have it programmed for my set) do this for me, however, I wasn't the happiest with the process when I had it converted/replaced for 220VAC unit, so I'd like to avoid this route.
 

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Here I am … another one converting from Lead-acid to Lithium … Chevy Volt set, in my case. I have rewired the set for 180V (two strings, 48 cells each). The charger is an NG3 220VAC input and it is currently programmed for 156V lead acid set. I am trying to set it to have a final voltage of 197V. I know the charger can make that voltage because I remember it going above 200V in equalizing phase for lead acid. By using the U trim pot I can dial in the constant voltage point (the point where red LED switches from solid ON to flashing). However, once it goes to yellow LED stage (equalizing) I can't seem to get it to stop charging at any particular voltage. I tried charging/discharging cycles and patiently tried tweaking the U pot, but the final point (voltage) just seems inconsistent. So, I've decided to not rely on the charger to stop automatically. I am going to dial the constant voltage phase to happen somewhere at 190V (if I can go that high) and then use my battery controller (arduino Due that monitors cell voltages through BMS slaves and CAN) to stop the charge at 197V. So, here are my questions:

What would be the best way to control the charger to stop the charge? I would like to avoid having to use a big relay to turn off AC power.

One way I can think of is to short the \RESET pin (pin 11) of the ST62T25 microcontroller to its COM. Is there a better way? Or, another way for redundancy?

Does anyone know what exactly are the functions of jumpers? I imagine it may differ based on firmware versions and changes over the years.

BTW, I am not sure of the vintage of my charger, but it is very likely from around 2009 - it has SMT components on the control board.

I have seen people talking about a set of wires that can control a relay inside the charger which can turn the output ON/OFF. My charger doesn't have that set of wires. I wonder if anyone knows where exactly those wires come from and whether I could add them.

I also know that I could probably have Zivan USA (or whatever the name of the outfit that can replace the MCU and have it programmed for my set) do this for me, however, I wasn't the happiest with the process when I had it converted/replaced for 220VAC unit, so I'd like to avoid this route.
 
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