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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This thread will be used to document as much as possible about this Zotye 5008 EV because there is not a lot of information to be found online.

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It is also known as a 2008 (older), T200 (newer) or Nomad.

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The car is a Daihatsu Terios which was converted by Zotye.
It's not really a DIY conversion but rather a factory conversion, I hope it's allright to post here.
The repairs and modifications are DIY though.

The car has parts that were bought from different suppliers rather than new OEM designed parts.
The only part that I've been able to find any info on is the 1.5Kw charger which is made by TC Charger.
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The info on other parts like the head unit (which runs on Windows CE 6.0), BMSs, motor controller and other stuff like the contactors have yet to be found.

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I bought it for cheap with subsidy in the beginning of this year and the car's head unit said that there was a cell that was low voltage.
Seller said that "it was a BMS error on pcb level" but that he had a local electronics guy look at it and that guy said that "he couldn't find anything out of the ordinary". Both of these things made me suspect that there were dead cells.

Because of the maximum attachments per post I will continue on the next one.

33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I wanted to confirm my suspicions so my dad and I went on to remove the two battery boxes which were mounted on the bottom of the car with just 8 bolts each.
We don't have a lift so we had to do it with some elbow grease.

First we had to disconnect the main battery leads and the communication cables before removing the 8 bolts per box (16 total).
With the "ignition" turned off I disconnected the communication cables. You remove them by just turning them loose and then pulling them out. A push and lock by twisting system. You take them off at the side of the battery boxes.
Then the main battery leads, they work just like pneumatic connectors. You pull the knurled ring towards one side and then the two ends seperare easily. I put duct tape on them to insulate them. There are 3 places to disconnect, two between the motor and the front battery box and one on the side of the front battery box.

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I used thick 1000V insulated gloves and a face shield just to be safe.

After that we were able to remove the battery boxes.
For the first box we decided to fill up the gap between the floor and the bottom of the battery box, to gradually lower it per side, one pallet at a time. Then we lifted the box up with my dad's trusty International 633 to put it up on some stands for later. It's not the most graceful way, but we had to make do with the tools we had.
You need a 13 and 17 millimeter socket for these bolts.

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We got the job done but thought we should try it in another way for the next box. So we decided to support the box on the lowest point the car could go and then lift the car up to pull the box out from underneath.
It worked well but had to lift the car up higher than we thought because the rear box has a different shape.
We succeeded and put the box on a pallet with some wheels underneath to move it around more easily.
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The next post will be about opening up the first battery box to take a look inside.

33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The box had some sealant around the edge of the lid. We scraped that off and found 4 hex bolts to remove.
After that the lid came off quite easily. Don't do this on your own because of its size and the almost bare battery poles underneath.

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The battery is a 100S 100AH Lifepo4 configuration. This front box holds 54 cells. As you can see, 2 cells had been replaced before.
I only measured the cells in the middle row for now, it was getting late and I just wanted to confirm my suspicions.
Out of the 13 cells measured, there were 2 cells with a voltage of 0.17 and 0.09. The others were at 3.33 or 3.28 volts. This confirmed my suspicions, these cells were surely dead. Not going to try and revive these.

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Knowing what was wrong, we closed the lid. I will come back later and take the whole battery apart to measure each and every cell. I can't reach them all in this configuration so I will take them all out after taking pictures of the layout or I will try to measure them by disconnecting the balance wires at the BMS.
I have found several places that sell these cells, so I'm not worried about that.

Hopefully this will revive this car!

Next posts will be reserved for future updates.

33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update of more than two weeks later:

I received my 3 capacity testers and took all cells from the first enclosure.
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I designed and printed some parts to mount these to a board to hang on the wall.
While those were being printed, I already tested 11 cells and found 2 dead cells.
One cell was bulging and read 0.09V and the other was dead because of a terminal that was tightened too hard so it spun inside the cell.

Good news about the other cells though; All but one had 90Ah or more left! One was 84.5Ah and there were even some with 95Ah and 101Ah!

There are 16 new Grade B cells on the way to me. I already ordered them without knowing how many needed to be replaced because the delivery will take a long time. I want to drive this car as soon as possible and adding the cap. testing time to the delivery time will take too long.

I chose Grade B cells because of their price and because they will probably match just fine with the current cells that have degraded a little bit. No need for 100Ah+ cells with Grade A.

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The cells are put in the box loosely without any padding. There is protection with glass fiber sheets between groups of cells. While it's not the best idea, I think they'll survive just fine with the mostly smooth roads we have here.

This is what the battery box looks like without cells. I taped each and every bms wire for insulation and labeled any wire that was out of the ordinary.
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I put all hardware in a assortment box for easy storage. The busbars are stacked sheets of copper by the way.
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Here's me hauling the cells to my own home to test. Wanted to spread the weight around the car :)

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I charge each cell with 10A using a ISDT charger I had left over from a quadcopter hobby.
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Because I don't want my new cells to break while tightening the bolts on the terminals, I am going to make a tool for these terminals to stop them from spinning. I will do that using a waterjet cutter at work.

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Next update will probably be the opening of the remaining battery box.

33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A small milestone has been reached; all the cells from the first battery box have been tested!
The results surprised me, in a good way.
Most cells have 90Ah+ left from the original 100Ah.
The average over 43 (45 cells minus 2 dead ones) cells is exactly 91Ah with a minimum of 83,5 Ah and a maximum of 104,5Ah.

This also meant that I had to open the second box for the first time to continue testing the left over 55 cells.
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Directly after opening the lid I saw two things that kind of shocked me (not literally), TWO bolts that hadn't been tightened and one busbar that was replaced with a less than 1mm thick piece of aluminium!!

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The cause of almost no power is now found and I am lucky nothing has been damaged because of it!
Luckily the new cells come with new busbars so I can easily swap them out.

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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I want to recreate the battery pack digitally for future reference and as a guide on how to put it back together.
The first battery pack has taken shape including busbars and HV cables.
BMS wires are next.
I won't add bolts, washers or cable connectors, those should be self explanatory.

Progress so far after 2 hours of drawing:
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Colleague had a little extra space on a cutting job that would otherwise be unusable.
He made me two of the battery terminal tools from the designs I gave him a few weeks ago.

No more spinning terminals

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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Small milestone reached: all cells have been tested!
The average of pack 1 came out to 91,1 Ah
The average of pack 2 came out to 91,4 Ah
The total average came out to 91,3 Ah

There were 3 dead cells total.
Will replace the 3 dead cells and the 13 lowest.
Those 13 cells that will be replaced will not be tossed, I will keep them as backup and/or to build a house battery in combination with my solar setup.

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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finally some good news;
The 16 cells I've ordered have arrived in my country!

The first 8 have arrived already (not sure why they wouldn't deliver all 4 boxes in one go).
7 are on 3.32V and one 3.28V. I will first do a capacity test on these new cells before throwing them in the car.
I also need to charge each cell to the same voltage to prevent high current flow when connecting them all together.

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The packaging was great and didn't suffer any damage. The cells are not bulged and seem to be fine.

At this point I'm going to open some compartments under the hood to hopefully identify more parts.
Doing this now while the battery is out of the car would reduce the change of me damaging myself or the components.
The car has been standing still with the ignition on, so all energy should be drained from capacitors.

Glad to be able to work on this car again after waiting for those cells to arrive!

33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I had some days off so naturally you start building batterypacks for your car :)

Yesterday I went out and started working on the front batterypack.
All cells were sorted by number and then I took the ones that needed replacement and swapped them out for the new cells.
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Then the rebuilding started. Luckily I had all wire locations written down, it helped me quite a few times!
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That's pack one done.
Then today I did exactly the same thing but now for the rear battery pack.
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Now that both battery packs are together again, I can put the lids back on and seal those shut with silicone.
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These packs are left to dry now.
Tomorrow we will mount the packs under the car again. We'll do it differently than how we removed them, hopefully saving us a lot of hassle and force.


33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We managed to attach both battery packs to the car again using a pallet jack.
Using the pallet jack makes this whole proces so much better than our janky setup we used when removing the boxes!

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Before reconnecting the battery boxes' connectors I measured if there was voltage between the last two connectors. When connecting there was no spark! I was quite scared of that to be honest, but we took some good safety precautions.

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All connected now!

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Then the moment I've been waiting for came...
I turned the key..


I saw a faint light on the dashboard and heard a very quiet alarm coming from the motor compartment.
I figured the 12V must've died while the battery was out.
Well, it was dead. We put it on a charger and after waiting for maybe 30 minutes the car was able to turn on and also move.
The charger was put in and we left it for a while.
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After a while I noticed that the lowest cell measured was again cell 78, even though the cells had the same voltage when putting it in the battery boxes.
That was a bummer, there's still something fishy going on with the BMS or communication.
I am really lacking the skills to find out how to connect to the can bus and also to find out what is being communicating. (Please contact me if you have knowledge about this without using the obd2 port)
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Even though the car still has issues, it does drive!
I tried it out in the small field my parents have.
Public roads will be avoided at this point because the car shuts off sometimes when a low voltage error occurs (even though the cell isn't low)

Something else I've discovered by accident while messing with the car's head unit is that I can reach the Windows CE desktop.
I'm going to investigate if I can pull information about the can bus from the programs running on the head unit or maybe something else.
It looks a little like this (all text is Chinese in my case though):
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