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Planning a 1985 VW "Doka" Conversion!

13K views 26 replies 11 participants last post by  Otmar  
#1 ·
Hi everyone!

Excited to announce our project to create an emission-free, mostly solar-powered site assessment/work truck for our Portland based solar installation company Elemental Energy.

We bought a 1985 VW Transporter Double Cab (aka "Doka" - before pictures attached) whose pug-like charm turns heads everywhere it goes - and will soon turn even more when we electrify it and deck it out with some solar panels!

Before anyone freaks out :eek:, let me clarify that we'll be charging the vehicle at our office which has a sizable solar array, hence most of our battery charging will be from solar! We plan to put some panels on the car as well, but that is mostly for marketing purposes - we are aware that the extra weight, cost and drag typically aren't worth the amount electricity they would produce. But having some solar on there is a must in terms of marketing. We may end up using the solar just to charge our 12V system, or we'd also like to maybe throw a 15A AC circuit on there to have a mobile power source - another candidate for putting the solar to more practical use.

On to the good stuff: the most exciting part of the project so far is that we got our hands on a really nice motor/controller combo for a great deal on ebay. We'll be using a Remy HVH250 with a Rinehart PM100DXcontroller.

Our next big design decision will be battery selection. Our ideal scenario was to get around 80-100 mi range unloaded, and maybe 50-60 miles loaded up with job equipment (1,600 lbs of solar panels, worst case). For that, we estimated we'd need somewhere in the ballpark of a 35 kWh battery pack. This might be cost prohibitive for us, so we may end up going with a smaller pack to start with, evaluating how well that works for us, and upgrading later if necessary & financially feasible.

In terms of our experience, we all went through a unique degree program in renewable energy engineering, which involved a lot of DIY hands on electronics projects, so we love this kind of stuff and have some good theory under our belts. However we are lacking in the auto mechanics department, and this is our first conversion project, so there will surely be a steep learning curve. We look forward to help from our local friend and former classmate Hollie Maea, and we also have a series of videos to reference from the EV4U guy who has done a conversion on the same vehicle.

We are excited to get to know you all and welcome any advice/suggestions/comments as we work our way through our first conversion. We hope to document everything pretty thoroughly, which we'll share here, and I'm sure we'll have tons of questions as we get started. Thanks!!
 

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#3 · (Edited)
I would recommend the CALB CA series cells for your project, so far they have been shown to be the best bang for the buck, and are reliable.

It seems that you estimation of KWh needed would put you in to the 100 cell count, since it is within the range of the Reinehart voltage limit.

You didnt state which Remy motor you have, standard or water cooled, I'm not sure what the amperage limit is on your motor, but if it is the standard, then 100ah cells would do, but if you have the water cooled, you may go up to a higher amp CA cell, depending on room.

As to distance, figure 10 percent of the total weight of the vehicle to be the watt hour used per mile, its a good estimation of what to expect.

There is more, but I hope I gave you at least a start in this conversion project.

Roy
 
#4 · (Edited)
You didnt state which Remy motor you have, standard or water cooled, I'm not sure what the amperage limit is on your motor, but if it is the standard, then 100ah cells would do, but if you have the water cooled, you may go up to a higher amp CA cell, depending on room.
I'm not sure what the motor cooling system has to do with the cell size, but at any rate the controller is the limiting factor with a current limit of 300A. With the pack sizes we are considering, battery C rate won't be an issue.

If we do go with a 35 kWh pack, LiFePO4 might be pushing it...that would be a 800+ lb pack!
 
#8 ·
we estimated we'd need somewhere in the ballpark of a 35 kWh battery pack. This might be cost prohibitive for us...
Well... considering your motor controller package you can probably afford to used two chevy volt battery pack (around 2K$ each, car-part.com as example).
For your 360v limit, you can use two time 84 cells in series, who consisted of 14 packs of 12 cells from the volt battery*, for a total of 28 kwh (315v nominal, 90Ah).

*A Chevy volt battery can roughly be considered as 8 pack of 12 cells for 96 cells in series (360v 45Ah)
 
#18 · (Edited)
Our next big design decision will be battery selection. Our ideal scenario was to get around 80-100 mi range unloaded, and maybe 50-60 miles loaded up with job equipment (1,600 lbs of solar panels, worst case). For that, we estimated we'd need somewhere in the ballpark of a 35 kWh battery pack.
Wonderful Project!
I love the DOKA and bought one to convert but then sold mine to focus on the VW camper.

I'm a bit concerned that your range numbers are optimistic. Was this just a guess or have you calculated things? Your target range for the pack size may be ok driving gently around town on a warm summer day, but on the freeway I would expect that you are looking at over 500 wh/mile, especially if you leave the rack on it. Then our wonderful northwest rain will add more drag as well.

Looking forward to watching the progress!
 
#19 ·
Update: resurrecting this project after a busy solar season.

Transmission is out! Ready to get an adapter plate made. We are leaning towards having one fabricated for us. We're trying to work on an accelerated timeline so I think it's going to be worth it for our first go around.

Also I've changed the plan for the drive train and batteries. Should be coming into some Thundersky 90 Ah batteries (about a ~30 kWh pack), and an Azure Dynamics AC55 motor soon. Since we are working on another conversion project on a little Austin Healey Sprite (build thread coming soon!) I'm thinking the AC55 is better suited to the Doka, and we'll use the Remy/Reinhart for the Sprite.

In response to Otmar's question, it was an estimate - in part based on an existing conversion (http://www.evalbum.com/4831) as well as best guesses. With a 30 kWh pack we should be in pretty good shape I think!
 

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#21 ·
I wouldn't, those OEM's are firebombs waiting to happen, unless you spend a lot safeguarding them

Stick with lithium ion phosphate, its a proven technology if bottom balanced and charged properly.

Remember if its got an "O" in the chemical description, and it burns, you aint gonna stop it from burning down to the ground.

By the time the fire dept gets there, its all over with.

Roy
 
#22 ·
While I agree with you that the iron phosphate cells seem to be more stable on paper, they still have "O" in their chemical composition. (LiFePO

4​
) If handled properly and monitored the Leaf and Volt cells have been pretty reliable. The energy density improvement is hard to pass up and the cost savings when buying from the salvage yard is also hard to pass up.
 
#24 ·
My god what a crock Roy. Outside of YouTube, Ive seen more LiFePO4 fires than LiPo or 4.2v fires. Ive seen LiFe cells like A123 pouches spontaneously ignite and burn to the ground for no reason.
The only LiPo fire Ive seen (mine at QLD raceway) was due to me abusing them by both overamping and undervolting.
I wouldnt be surprised if LiFe cells disappear from the market.
Thundersky cells will all bloat no matter how well you treat them and have a high fail rate.
Nissan and Chev didnt chose to run their cells because they were crap.
 
#26 ·
Any of these chemistries can be dangerous if abused, especially if you choose to run and charge without either a BMS or the great care that must be taken without one. It's easy to get lazy.

LiFePO4 has poorer energy density but more temperature tolerance than some of the others. It's a good DIY chemistry, but definitely not intrinsically safe.
 
#27 ·
I wouldn't put all that much value in these reports of one "safe" event. I've failed a few cells in testing, sometimes they seem tame, others not so much. It helps to know how to make them fail with high state of charge, heat and internal shorting. Here's a paper with some reasoning behind different chemistries.

http://www.mpoweruk.com/lithium_failures.htm

The first 40 seconds of this video is a nice show of what LiCo can do when properly heated and shorted, the fireworks piles are cell modules. The rest of the video can be skipped. There is a reason that Tesla does such a great job isolating and containing cell modules, unless of course you cut the pack in half by hitting a pole sideways at 80+ MPH. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kE_u731EmYA