Ok guys what do you think of the 500 amp with opto/ regen curtis controller advertised on cloudelectric's site for $999. And #2 when/why do I need a heat sink for these controllers? do fans help? ( my system AMD 9" and 144 v 12v wetties). thanks again.

Hi ace,

Please provide a link. And what is AMD 9"?

Regards,

major

 

Ok guys what do you think of the 500 amp with opto/ regen curtis controller advertised on cloudelectric's site for $999.

From what I see, there are no $999 curtis controllers on the website, especially none with regen. Do you mean KELLY? Even then, you leave no basic information.... like what its going into.... and I don't feel like searching through all of your threads to find out..... (I'm sure I'm not the only one).

And #2 when/why do I need a heat sink for these controllers? do fans help?

You should always use a heat sink of some sort. You need them because the controllers get hot, why else?

( my system AMD 9" and 144 v 12v wetties).

AMD 9"? wetties?

You mean ADC 9" and Floodies?

 

yea sorry guys for he vagueness, the motor is the Advance FB 4001 (http://www.cloudelectric.com/product_p/mo-fb1-4001a.htm

I will be using # 12 gp27 deep cycle batts. ( wetties)
and the controller is a kelly 500 amp
(http://www.cloudelectric.com/category_s/342.htm

usual 5k throttle and guages.

do these manufactures usually recomend a heatsink or is that something that i need to research/design. thanks again

 

That controller really under performs unless it has changed in the last year or so. I did a comparison with it, the Kelley 120v 800amp and the Curtis 1231C 144v 500 controller.

You can read about my findings here.
http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2009/08/in-name-of-science.html

 

I couldn't open this link.Is it deleted?

 

bblocher I think you may have given me an epiphiny! please excuse my ignorance but do these ratings ( amps) on the controllers actually represent the output of the controller? I was understanding that the rating represented the handling capacity, hook a brother up? and if thats so wouldn't a higher rated controller eat the pack sooner i.e. the old performance vs. economy arguement?

 

The rating is indeed output. Controllers are rated at peak, regardless of duration. Some controllers won't hold their rating for even a second while others can hold it for a much longer duration. I just want to give you a heads up that continuous handling is much lower.

The effects of amp draw on the pack are really another story. You of course want to make sure you don't draw too much current from the pack. However, a higher rated controller will just allow you to use the power if needed. You can use as much power as your foot is heavy.

 

"Wetties" -- that's a new one on me, even in 12 years of EV experience.

I heard them called "Floodies" before, but never "Wetties" until now.

Yes, your output capacity on the label (as with anything electronic) should always be assumed to be PEAK unless specifically marked as RMS.

Continuous current handling of your batteries, controller and motor will always be far less than the PEAK rating. In fact, your motor probably won't hold up to 500A all the time, but can probably take it for 5-15 minutes. I'm not sure the exact continuous rating of that motor.

 

It seems the controller 144V 800A can match with FB1-4001B perfectly.
Usually the controller's power should be 2.0 times of the motor's.
It is the best combination.
I scaned the website.The series wound motor couldn't do regen well.
KDH14800D is the best choice.I have tried it with a Netgain warp 9" motor.