[evmetro]

Dougingraham, that was a really good catch on the JLD shunt. I actually got halfway done wiring one of my rigs before I caught the fact that my charger was not in the loop, and my DC DC was already wired in outside the shunt. I really like where my shunt was located, so I wired all my HV grounds to that location, but I made a note to self to just put the shunt on the HV negative terminal right on the pack on my next build. Another circuit that I added to the JLD was a circuit to turn on the JLD with the charge enable so that I can see the current flow while it is charging, even though the JLD shuts down with the ignition key.

 

[Caps18]

So, I have been working on this over the past 2 months. I probably should have posted some updates in that time, but it has been busy around here. I have purchased a lot of the parts, so I have a better sense of what connectors and wires they have. I will be buying the DC-DC converter this weekend. And I have decided to not use the power steering system and instead switch to a manual one. The power requirements and cost to keep the power steering weren't worth it in the end. (I haven't removed it yet however)

I am looking into adding a push to start system, so that would mean adding auto door locks. It would make the car a little more modern, but would be done after it is all working. There are quite a few things listed on the wiring diagram now that don't need to be done right away.

The other big issue I just found out about is that the blue and orange wires going to the main contactor are 48V, not 12V. I will need to make sure the AVC2 and inertia switch can handle 48V or figure out someplace else to put them.

And I forgot to label the charger in the bottom right...

 

[frodus]

Why are you connecting the avc2 to the contactor? Nothing else should be on that circuit..... It's for Contactor only and nothing should be allowed to interrupt it. If you need to stop the controller, use the interlock input on the controller.

 

[Caps18]

It was a suggestion in post #22.

I read some of the controller manual yesterday, and I was wondering about that interlock wire and what it was used for.

The specs on the 12V disconnect are 240V (DC? AC?) and 10A, so that will probably need to be moved too.

 

[frodus]

Thats what you'd do if you had a controller that didn't control the contactor.

For the Curtis AC drives which control their own contactor, use the interlock to stop the controller. Ask HPEVS if you're unsure I'm right or not, but this is how they've advised people to disable the controller.

The interlock will disable the drive. I would wire the inertial switch and the avc2 disable in series to the interlock. If any are active, you cannot drive. That's the whole idea an interlock.

 

[dougingraham]

If the controller loses its mind the interlock input might not do anything. Opening the contactor will stop the motor from running if all else fails. It all depends on how paranoid you are.

 

[frodus]

It's HPEVS and Curtis themselves that say to do it this way. I mean, feel free to call them both up and see what their recommendations are if you don't believe me. I've gone through this with them before, and they say use interlock to disable the controller, don't put anything else in the contactor circuit and don't kill the ksi under load.

 

[Caps18]

I'm not sure how paranoid I should be... My co-workers might be more paranoid of me building something this complicated . But everything works great eventually. I just have blown up some parts in the past. I am trying not to do that this time, and I appreciate all of the help.

Should the 12V disconnect go on the same green interlock wire? It wouldn't see the amps that it is being exposed to where it is now (which it can't handle).

Did I wire up the Key Switch Input replay correctly? It just seems odd that there is a lot of voltage on that wire. What voltage limit should the fuse have? And why wouldn't Curtis or HPEVS send one with the controller...? I just dealt with a company at work not sending a .02 cent resistor that took me 30 minutes to buy this week and two days waiting on it... it is annoying.

The other annoying part is that I received a coolant pump, but with no wire connector and no pin assignments. Same with my electronic throttle.
Luckily I have a connector from my old air intake that fits, and I was able to find the pin assignments on-line. But, this needs to be supplied with the part when you buy it.
http://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...ing-intercooling-charge-coolers-heat-exchangers-circulation-pumps-connector.png

 

[Caps18]

Since I was using the wrong color wire for the main contactor, and now have to connect the coil return to the brake light relay when regen is active, I have updated the wiring diagram to version 15.

 

[davidmillin]

Hi Caps

What is the 50 microhenry inductor on the DC DC converter input for?

 

[Caps18]

Here is what EVTV says the inductor is for: "Inductor filters voltage spikes from the motor controller from entering DC-DC converter"

 

[Caps18]

Here is the latest version for my wiring diagram. I am finally on the wiring part of my conversion project. I have also updates that switched 12V wiring to the industry standard yellow. Although I'm not sure if everything is 100% correct yet. There is a fuse panel and other switches that I'm looking into.

The gauge cluster might be changing now that AI-Display's has a GPS speedometer and battery/controller gauge now.

 

[Matteo80]

I need help on my project, please. I would be very grateful to you. mail: matteo _ lcn at yahoo . it

 

[remy_martian]

Post a new build thread on this forum if you need help. Help is for many, not for one.

 

[kennybobby]

i looked at your diagram @Caps, and have some questions/suggestions.

Do you need to have a precharge resistor circuit between the pack and the motor controller? Almost all EVs do.

Is the Main contactor wired correctly--wouldn't the A1+ terminal go the the high side, i.e. the Pack + and the A2- goes to the motor controller?

The 12VDC output of the DC-DC Converter (Yellow wire)--i think a single large gage wire should go directly to the 12V battery + terminal; then any/all the 12V loads should come off the + terminal thru Red wires to fuses, relays, etc. Don't try to supply any loads directly from the DC converter, it's purpose is to charge the 12V battery.

The HV + input for the DC Converter should be taken after the pre-charge and Main contactor circuits; as shown the DC converter is always Hot with HV. Some cars use a Main Contactor on the Negative side also, in order to totally isolate the pack when the car is Off.

Whoa, it looks like you don't have a BMS unit, and it looks like you are trying to parallel four 115V batteries? More research is needed here before wiring this up.

It is not clear how the charger is connected to the Pack.

i don't see a gear shift selector, how to you change to Forward or Reverse or Neutral or Park?

The key relay appears to have HV input that is switched to send HV to the controller (Blue wire), so that connector has mixed voltage level signals, HV and LV and control inputs. That will require careful routing and insulation to ensure isolation.

i would recommend that you create some additional diagrams, likes a separate page just for the HV circuits and devices, then another page for the LV circuits and devices, then a third page for the interface circuits, wiring harnesses and connectors, etc which have involve both the High and Low Voltages.