[drywaller]

Hello,
How's the V50 pump working out? I want to do this too, but I'm worried that the pump won't provide full performance without appropriate CAN commands.

Can you tell us what kind of hydraulic fittings it requires?
Are the electrical connectors available anywhere?

Thanks,
Erich

Erich, the pump works great. The pump runs consistant without the CAN signal. I decided to go a different route with my project so this thing still sits on my workbench.
I did however buy a steering valve and had some hydraulic lines made up so I could see just how well this pump would work in another application. (off road rack crawler)
This thing is awesome. The cylinder that I used is only 1.5" in diameter with about an 8" stroke. I put this under the front of my Chevrolet 2500HD with the diesel engine (its heavy) and the pump/cylinder almost lifted the fron wheels off the ground. I dont know how much the fron of my truck weighs but my 2.5 ton Snap On floor lift jack struggles to lift it.
Anyway, I posted a video on youtube showing the ins and outs of this thing running.
I am open to offers on this set up as I dont really have a use for it in the near future.
I you are interested in the steering valve it is a Sauer Danfoss Open center load reactive with the 5th auxillary port.
Anyways, Id take $300 for everything.
Heres the link to youtube...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygylYK-h0b8

 

[drywaller]

Erich, forgot to answer a couple of your questions. The fitting coming out of the pump is a metric M16x1.5 o-ring sealed fitting.
As for the plugs...I was lucky enough to get the plugs with my pump. Prior to that I search high and low and the only ones I found were attached to a host car. (aka junk yard) The only way I could get the wrecking yards that I called to sell the plugs was to buy the whole wire harness that was connected to the plugs in question.

 

[TomA]

This is very slick, Marco, nice job.

Do you know how much current this unit is drawing?

TomA

 

[drywaller]

This is very slick, Marco, nice job.

Do you know how much current this unit is drawing?

TomA

Thanks Tom!
I have never checked the amps. When I get home from work I will check. I have a new Fluke clamp meter that I have not even used yet. This will be perfect. Ill post later

 

[drywaller]

This is very slick, Marco, nice job.

Do you know how much current this unit is drawing?

TomA

Ok, had a chance to check the amps. The highest reading I managed was 69 amps.
Hope this helps.

 

[TomA]

Wow, at 13.2 Volts that's about 900W!

It would be well worth figuring out the CAN signaling on an intact V50 to get control over the pump motor. Then you could spool it down to the actual pressure level needed, and also cut the pump back as vehicle speed increases the way the V50 almost certainly does.

As it is, full on at 69 Amps seems like a huge draw, and at that power level, one has to wonder how long this unit would last. Does anyone know how this compares to a Toyota MR2 PS pump?

Great information Marco, thanks. Anything to add that you have observed about th way this thing uses energy, like does it always draw that much current, does it get hot or complain?

Thanks for the effort!

TomA

 

[etischer]

I think the 69 Amps he is talking about is the max while the wheel is turning. Im sure the no load current is much less.

Wow, at 13.2 Volts that's about 900W!

It would be well worth figuring out the CAN signaling on an intact V50 to get control over the pump motor. Then you could spool it down to the actual pressure level needed, and also cut the pump back as vehicle speed increases the way the V50 almost certainly does.

As it is, full on at 69 Amps seems like a huge draw, and at that power level, one has to wonder how long this unit would last. Does anyone know how this compares to a Toyota MR2 PS pump?

Great information Marco, thanks. Anything to add that you have observed about th way this thing uses energy, like does it always draw that much current, does it get hot or complain?

Thanks for the effort!

TomA

 

[drywaller]

Sorry guys, I should have stated this. Yes, the 69 amps is at full load...when the cylinder is maxed in one direction or the other.
At startup the pump draws less than 3 amps. The pump does not start full speed. It ramps up to what I think is max rpm then slows some.
It is very difficult to get an amp reading when turning the valve as the reading bounces around a bit.
If you guys need an exact reading I can try again to see if I can be more accurate.

 

[_Basser_]

These posts were very encouraging, so I got one of these pumps from a wrecker. It took sometime to find a shop with the right metric fittings for my miata PS rack, but tonight I was finally ready to try it. The GB pin and the mains were hooked up, but nothing. Then about 20 seconds later smoke started coming out from under the plastic cover Now the unit draws 14amps continuously. Now that the smoke has been let out I guess that is it for that unit..........

 

[_Basser_]

Finally spent a bit of time taking apart the volvo pump and discovered that the wrecker sold me a pump that was full of water. The motor had rusted to the point that it would not turn at all. That is why the electronics heated up and the smoke was released. I wonder if I can convince the wrecker to send me a replacement unit?

 

[flightrail john]

Drywaller: I am attempting to follow in your footsteps. We have a little crane with a 4cyl diesel engine which I replaced. The new engine does not have provision for the ps pump. The crane has a fully hydrostatic steering system which sounds very similar to the setup you used to lift your truck off the ground. It has a 3" cylinder using 8" of stroke lock-to-lock, so more capacity. There are some TRW electric pumps available new on e-bay. They are rated up to 3gpm and 1000w. I think one of these would have adequate capacity for our crane, but I have been hesitant to buy one because of the CAN control issue. Your success has encouraged me. Is the Volvo pump made by TRW? What kind of cycle time did you have with your 1.5" cylinder? thanks

 

[drywaller]

Sorry for the delayed response. I never timed the cycle time with my setup. With the 1.5" cylinder it was fairly quick from lock to lock.
I am not sure who makes the pump. The only markings that I can remember were the ford motor company moniker. (Fomoco)
I helped a guy with his side by side. He needed a hydro steering setup to accommodate a physical limitation. He contacted me via YouTube. His name is Dave balsasera.
He a great guy. He has the technical knowledge when it comes to designing systems.
As far as the can systems. From what I understand most if not all the can pumps will run with a direct 12volts. The trick is finding the switching or trigger wire. Just remember that there may be a delay when energizing this wire.
If you can't find Dave on my YouTube page let me know and I'll see if I can track him down.

 

[puddleglum]

drywaller,
Does the Volvo pump have a built in relief valve or does it require an external one?

 

[drywaller]

I was told that it has a built in bypass but could never confirm. When running my steering valve from lock to lock it would strain the pump somewhat but it never sounded like it was working too hard. The internal thermal breaker never tripped either.

 

[flightrail john]

It is my understanding that the hydrostatic steering valves like danfoss or char-lynn bypass back to the pump or reservoir when there is no demand. I'm receiving a new TRW pump today and will be following in Drywaller's footsteps. I'll post my progress and results in this thread as they happen--if that's OK. I think too that the recirculating ball steering gears also bypass when there is no demand as there always seems to be flow through the pump. Not sure about power-assisted rack & pinion systems.

 

[drywaller]

John. When ordering a steering valve be sure to know the difference between reactive and non reactive.
Basicly the non reactive will not respond to bumps in the road and will not return to center unless you manually turn the valve. Reactive is more like an automobile system. When exiting a turn the steering wheel will return to center or very close to it.
Please note that the valve I used in the video had a fifth port. It is referred to as power beyond port. When there is no input to the valve the fluid free flows through the power beyond port back to the resivoir.

 

[Leafy]

I have another related question to these pumps. I just bought one but I'm having a hard time figuring out what connectors it runs. I'm used to Japanese cars where its either Sumitomo or Yakazi for 90% of the connectors. Anyone figure out what they are already? I would prefer to not hack some crap together.

To update myself. I found that volvo sells all their harness connectors. The two needed for this pump are 30728420 and 30658215. However those are just the housings with no terminals or isolators I'm struggling through volvo parts diagrams to figure out what terminals fit these connectors.

 

[drywaller]

Leafy, thanks for posting this info. If you find the rest of the info regarding the plugs please share. I know first hand that it is difficult at best when it comes to locating plugs.

 

[Leafy]

So getting those housings for the plugs are super simple. Any volvo dealer can order them, they cost like $2 and change. I took my best guess at what terminals and junk I needed to make it work and ordered it. We'll see what I end up getting and what I'm missing. I couldnt find the terminal isolator/strain reliefs and seals for the housing connection. At the very worst, you can buy the entire high amerage harness which has a few feet or heavy gauge wire, wire hold downs and ring terminals with the entire connector on the pump end for like $35. With the 420 part number it'll be easy to find that harness from the where used on a volvo parts site.

 

[Leafy]

Couple things to add I cant figure out the terminals to order for it. I just gave up and ordered the harness for $35 and I'm just sticking a blade connector on the 1 low power terminal to turn it on. The harness part number is 30775461.

But now the car seems to be possessed by Satan. You touch the wheel and to whips a few turns and then shakes or it'll just shake if you nudge it. I've never seen this before, its not like air in the lines where it only shakes a tiny bit and/or you can stop it. Anyone found something that about the pressure? Thats about all I can think of now. Well besides there being an issue from the pump being in the trunk and there being 12 feet of hose both ways, maybe too much resistance on the return line or something.