[Casper10]

Sounds like the hoses are crossed or the pump is running backwards if it's possible,had something similar happen to me,started up a fork truck and the steering wheel spun around and the hand knob wacked my wrist, yeouch!! , someone had reversed the hoses (but no-one had touched it). It may just have a gutfull of air, make sure the hoses run as flat as possible with no major droops between tie downs, is the pump higher than the box, if not the air won't bleed thru to the resevoir easily or quickly.

 

[Leafy]

Sounds like the hoses are crossed or the pump is running backwards if it's possible,had something similar happen to me,started up a fork truck and the steering wheel spun around and the hand knob wacked my wrist, yeouch!! , someone had reversed the hoses (but no-one had touched it). It may just have a gutfull of air, make sure the hoses run as flat as possible with no major droops between tie downs, is the pump higher than the box, if not the air won't bleed thru to the resevoir easily or quickly.

I wouldnt think it was air since the thing would fight me as it tires to spin. Unless the air is stuck in the steering valve on the rack. No way the lines could be cross, on the rack one is a banjo fitting that was crimped to a hose that I switched to an AN fitting, and the low pressure side of the rack is a hardline with a bubble flare on the end for a hose to slip over and clamp. And on on the pump side one's threaded the other is a barb molded into the reservoir. Its just like the valve in the rack isnt working right, maybe the volvo pump outputs too much pressure for the miata rack.

 

[Casper10]

Wouldn't think the pump pressure is the problem but would be an idea to check the specs on both vehicles as long as there within 100psi of each other it wouldn't matter. Is it a new or used EHPS unit, the relief valve may be stuck or have some forigne material jamming it. It's more likely that a gremlin got into the steering valve in the change over and is jamming the directional control valve,doesn't have to be much a sliver of rubber,metal or plastic or a build up of muck thats been dislodged sometimes I've pulled them apart and cleaned them out not finding anything but they work perfectly when reinstalled. Anyway with anything hydraulic allways start with the pressures first. Best Regards Casper10
PS: Have you checked that the pump is spinning the right way? I know it sounds stupid but stranger things have happened,make sure that the pressure is at the correct fitting.
Make sure that none of the hoses or pipes are lower than the rack so that the air can bleed up from the valve to the pump,there is a reason that they usually mount the pumps high in the engine bay

 

[Leafy]

I did find that the max pump pressure for this pump is 120bar.

But I'm down to two options now. I did rotate the return hardline on the rack down so it could be trapping air. And the wrecking yard that sold me the rack must have been a sand bowl because I had to spend hours cleaning the sand out if the connections on it and the abs pump I got from them.

 

[Casper10]

I did find that the max pump pressure for this pump is 120bar.

But I'm down to two options now. I did rotate the return hardline on the rack down so it could be trapping air. And the wrecking yard that sold me the rack must have been a sand bowl because I had to spend hours cleaning the sand out if the connections on it and the abs pump I got from them.

Sorry I haven't got back to you Leafy, doesn't sound to good if it had sand in and around it 1 bloody grain would be enough to jam a valve etc. Hows it going have you got it working,let me know if you found anything. Casper10

 

[Leafy]

I figured out my issue, nothing relating to the pump at all. There's two external hardlines on the rack that go from the rack to itself that I removed to rotate my low pressure line, they look like they can only go on one way, but they can go on both ways and I had them switched. Woops, works perfectly now, just way overassisted compared to the stock pump, which is fine for me, the stock pump didnt really supply enough assist for 275wide slicks anyways.

 

[Casper10]

I figured out my issue, nothing relating to the pump at all. There's two external hardlines on the rack that go from the rack to itself that I removed to rotate my low pressure line, they look like they can only go on one way, but they can go on both ways and I had them switched. Woops, works perfectly now, just way overassisted compared to the stock pump, which is fine for me, the stock pump didnt really supply enough assist for 275wide slicks anyways.

Thats great to hear Leafy, when I 1st read your prob I thought it was a reversed hose/pipe,seemed to be same symptom as the fork that near broke my wrist. Glad it all worked out & now we have another EHPS system we know can be used on EV's. Regards Casper10

 

[Casper10]

Thats great to hear Leafy, when I 1st read your prob I thought it was a reversed hose/pipe,seemed to be same symptom as the fork that near broke my wrist. Glad it all worked out & now we have another EHPS system we know can be used on EV's. Regards Casper10

Just a thought Leafy,you could install an adjustable rheostat in the supply wire and adjust the voltage to get the assistance level desired?

 

[Leafy]

Just a thought Leafy,you could install an adjustable rheostat in the supply wire and adjust the voltage to get the assistance level desired?

I'd rather not. This is a brushless DC motor so varying the supply voltage is no good. You can fake it by varying the supply amperage but it would be better to just gain control of the controller. THis pump has online literature that makes it seem really easy to program if you are an OEM but doesnt go into detail as to how to do it. If we really wanted it it looks like you can in fact open the case up on this pump without destroying it and we could maybe run some other controller that doesnt require CANBUS magic in order to control, or some sort of hardware hack on the controller in it.

 

[Casper10]

I'd rather not. This is a brushless DC motor so varying the supply voltage is no good. You can fake it by varying the supply amperage but it would be better to just gain control of the controller. THis pump has online literature that makes it seem really easy to program if you are an OEM but doesnt go into detail as to how to do it. If we really wanted it it looks like you can in fact open the case up on this pump without destroying it and we could maybe run some other controller that doesnt require CANBUS magic in order to control, or some sort of hardware hack on the controller in it.

Thats sorta what I was getting at,bit over simplified though.I've just purchased a DC A/C Compressor for my motorhome to replace the 240v unit,after running the original thru an inverter it used nearly twice the power. It has a brushless dc motor in the compressor and if you run it on 12v it runs at half the speed and output (in btu's) of 24v, by the specs. Just thought the pump may have been the same. It could be set up with a bleed off in the pressure line operated by a stepper to get the same result. There must be a way we can drop the oil flow easily like they do with the speed sensors that cut the output at high speed. Its good to have another option now with the EHPS units, so now we have the Toyota M2R, Astra/Vauxhall TS, & the Volvo units to pick from when doing EV conversions. I'm glad you got it working thats another box checked off in the conversion! Regards Casper10

 

[Old.DSMer]

Additional Info

If we really wanted it it looks like you can in fact open the case up on this pump without destroying it and we could maybe run some other controller that doesnt require CANBUS magic in order to control, or some sort of hardware hack on the controller in it.

This is the problem with late model EHPS units. I'm no expert, but my research has found they require a microcontroller to run. Typically this is integrated into the factory CAN and is reliant on other vehicle systems. I am currently trying to hack a TRW unit from a 2010 Hyundai Genesis. Currently waiting for my BLDC controller to arrive. I will start another thread so I don't pollute this one. I hope it works because there are limited (economical) options around here. And many of these EHPS units use BLDC motors, so a potential option for many different brands. I've identified most of the components on this particular unit. Of course, the motor FET driver is proprietary, so the existing hardware cannot be hacked - at least not by me (My original thought was to bypass the microcontroller).

 

[Casper10]

Re: Additional Info

This is the problem with late model EHPS units. I'm no expert, but my research has found they require a microcontroller to run. Typically this is integrated into the factory CAN and is reliant on other vehicle systems. I am currently trying to hack a TRW unit from a 2010 Hyundai Genesis. Currently waiting for my BLDC controller to arrive. I will start another thread so I don't pollute this one. I hope it works because there are limited (economical) options around here. And many of these EHPS units use BLDC motors, so a potential option for many different brands. I've identified most of the components on this particular unit. Of course, the motor FET driver is proprietary, so the existing hardware cannot be hacked - at least not by me (My original thought was to bypass the microcontroller).

Hi Old.DSMer,Keep us posted on your results,we have been searching and evaluating EHPS systems on the thread Power Steering Solutions to find systems that will install simply onto an EV.
The ones that convert the best so far and have written & photo proof are Toyota M2R,Astra/vauxhall/Opel TS, The Earlier Mazda 3 systems also have evidence to show that they will work but apparently need an alternator to sense off,the same is partially true for the Astra/Vauxhall unit.The units to purchase are : M2R with attatched resevoir,Astra unit with flat bottom(no cooling fins) ,the later MK4 units will work and are wired the same but are more dependant on having an alternator - Wiring is Blue white wire to alternator charge light pole,Thin black wire feed from ign switch,thick red wire battery positive thru an 80amp self resetting circuit breaker, Thick black wire battery negative. Apart from the sensors I think the biggest problem is that the later units need the alternator connection to operate, All the evidence we have gathered seems to point to this. Find wiring for the M2R(astra as well just add the alternator connection) here:http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=266&pictureid=1741

 

[Old.DSMer]

Casper10, thanks for the link. I have also been monitoring that other thread.

My problem with the MR2 is cost. They are in high demand. Searching the web has revealed countless applications by the tuner crowd, racing groups, and even classic restorations. Not much on the Mazda one, as I think it also requires CAN.

TRW advertises self contained units on their website, but nobody has ever responded to my inquiries. I'm hoping to get the Hyundai unit working for a fraction of the cost of an MR2 unit and still have speed based functionality instead of just running full power. Time will tell.

 

[Casper10]

Casper10, thanks for the link. I have also been monitoring that other thread.

My problem with the MR2 is cost. They are in high demand. Searching the web has revealed countless applications by the tuner crowd, racing groups, and even classic restorations. Not much on the Mazda one, as I think it also requires CAN.

TRW advertises self contained units on their website, but nobody has ever responded to my inquiries. I'm hoping to get the Hyundai unit working for a fraction of the cost of an MR2 unit and still have speed based functionality instead of just running full power. Time will tell.

Hi Old.DSMer,The M2r units arn't really that expensive usually $200 to $300, about half the price of some EV conversion/parts firms. The early previous to and including some 2007 models work stand alone and from what I have picked up from around the traps is that quite a lot of them will work if connected to an alternator,quite often not used on an EV but in light of my discoveries maybe they should be as the drag would be far out wayed by the usefullness. The early Astra unit can be obtained from $40 many people quoted this price. Both of these unit don't run at full power but start up run for a few secs and then drop back to an idle mode and pick up when sensing load, the M2R unit has a self contained procesor which can be linked to the alternator to shut it down when the motor stops and speed sensors etc, (but all of this was worked thru on the P/S Solutions page),how much would an ehps + the controller you spoke of cost relative to the cost of thr M2R unit + simplicity of installation.
Egads much too think about!! Best regards Casper10

 

[Casper10]

Casper10, thanks for the link. I have also been monitoring that other thread.

My problem with the MR2 is cost. They are in high demand. Searching the web has revealed countless applications by the tuner crowd, racing groups, and even classic restorations. Not much on the Mazda one, as I think it also requires CAN.

TRW advertises self contained units on their website, but nobody has ever responded to my inquiries. I'm hoping to get the Hyundai unit working for a fraction of the cost of an MR2 unit and still have speed based functionality instead of just running full power. Time will tell.

I think you should start another thread soon as we are really polluting this one,we're not talking Volvo any more, I have seen the TRW units advertised over here in the colonies & hot rodder mates of my son use them but the price is prohibitive $500 plus.
Regards Casper

 

[Old.DSMer]

...how much would an ehps + the controller you spoke of cost relative to the cost of thr M2R unit + simplicity of installation.
Egads much too think about!! Best regards Casper10

I'm into it for under $150US. And my countless hours of research - but as we all here know - that has no "value"

If (and thats a big IF) it works, then the control method could possibly be applied to any EHPS unit driven by a BLDC motor. I wouldn't say its as "simple" as the MR2.....but they only made so many of that style pump. Alternatives are needed. Or someone with out-of-this-world CAN hacking/emulation skills.

My Hyundai EHPS thread is here.

 

[easy_e]

I'm new to this forum, but I joined because I too want to replace my mechanical steering pump with the EPS.



I found some additional information provided by the link below:


http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/volvo-parts-ordering-question/77876/page1/

My vehicle is can bus equipped and I would like to take advantage of the can bus control.

Does anyone know which protocol of can bus Volvo uses for the eps?

If the protocols are the same as my current vehicle will it automatically interpret the can bus hi and low signals?

The big issue is getting around the configuration ID.

"A configuration ID for the EPS is stored in both the CEM and the EPS.
These IDs are compared and must correspond for the system to function."

I know that there is a guy who got the can bus working by using an Arduino to fake out the configuration ID and I believe his vehicle (Miata) was not can bus equipped.

Something like the link below:

http://arduinodev.com/hardware/obd-kit/

Thanks!

 

[HPEVS]

I can probably hack the CAN bus to the PS pump. I would need a car to plug into though to collect the CAN traffic. I just bought one of the Volvo pumps off eBay I'm going to use for the power steering in an electric boat conversion.

If there is anyone in the so cal area that has a Volvo with EPS, and wants to stop by long enough for me to grab the CAN info, I can probably have the CAN data figured out in a week or so.

Brian

 

[Leafy]

I'll ask my volvo friends if there's anyone in your area with the correct year cars.

 

[HPEVS]

That would be great. The pump I have is from a 2011 to 2013. Don't know much about these yet, but I will share all I find on the forum.