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Your 300 km of range is just over the "I can roadtrip in this" range to me. At 200, 250... starts to be too tough.

Looks like an awesome trip. Great to see a DIY EV go on such a long trip :)
 
Discussion starter · #163 · (Edited)
Re: VW Vanagon T3 with Chevy Bolt drivetrain

Great news Yabert! Congratulations. How long are you having to stop to charge?
A typical driving day was:
Full charge in the morning, drive 220 km, stop to charge 6h or 7h and drive another 200 km or so to the charge station for the night.
By chance we only did this 15-20 days during our two months trip.
The best days was: Full charge in the morning, drive 100 km, hike, drive 50, lunch, drive 50, hike, drive to the campground for a dinner and full the van overnight :D

A working fast charge is a must... I will work on this.

15 500 km trip without problem with the van.
 
Frustrating how CCS level 3 charging for diy conversions is still not a solved problem, it's fine with chademo though, that's dead simple

feels like a requirement for any build with under 200 miles of range, in the usa at least, taking a conversion from weird oddity to very practical daily in all but the most unique circumstances
 
Sweet project!

It seems like the tricky bit is charging that fast without frying the batteries...It seems like these batteries don't get too hot unless you're drag racing back-to-backa ...or charging them quickly.

I expect some future project of mine to look like wagon, van, or truck just stuffed to the gills with batteries and fast-charge capable, so I'm curious to see where you end up.
 
Great Project. This is my goal for a Karman Ghia + Bolt. The underpan battery s very similar to a Bug or Ghia Underpan.
I will use the dimensions of your battery drawing to help me compare dimensioned line drawings of Ghia to the Bolt Battery. Congratulations on this accomplishment!
I feel like the Bolt platform is probably the best overall value/performance especially used or wrecked ones.
 
This is my goal for a Karman Ghia + Bolt. The underpan battery s very similar to a Bug or Ghia Underpan.
I will use the dimensions of your battery drawing to help me compare dimensioned line drawings of Ghia to the Bolt Battery.
Except that the Beetle platform is a thin panel, and the Bolt battery is a thick box (173 mm or 6.75" tall). Are you planning on having the bottom of the Bolt battery case slide on the ground, or are you planning to jack the Karmann Ghia up like a 4X4 truck to regain clearance?

Yabert's van had a much higher floor than a Karmann Ghia, and now it has reduced ground clearance. That works for the van, but wouldn't for the car, even without the huge hole and structural changes needed to accommodate the taller part of the pack.
 
Except that the Beetle platform is a thin panel, and the Bolt battery is a thick box (173 mm or 6.75" tall). Are you planning on having the bottom of the Bolt battery case slide on the ground, or are you planning to jack the Karmann Ghia up like a 4X4 truck to regain clearance?

Yabert's van had a much higher floor than a Karmann Ghia, and now it has reduced ground clearance. That works for the van, but wouldn't for the car, even without the huge hole and structural changes needed to accommodate the taller part of the pack.
All excellent points.
Thickness is a problem.
Maybe a compromise can be met.
Folks often put 2.5" drop spindles on Beetles/Ghias. Obviously wouldn't do that, but
Maybe there is enough clearance for a split the difference approach. A car does need ground clearance, but for street and hwy use, less is needed. A camper implies a modest amount of offroad use.

The torque tube looks to be about as thick as the battery. So that is promising.

The back seat area can accommodate the tall portion of the battery box, another bonus.

The floor and battery pans are virtually the same dimensions in length and width. This is a big deal for many of the same reasons Yabert has said regarding keeping the battery sealed.

Raising the floor creates issues for tall folks. I am 6 ft tall. Shorter seats can help there.

Not discounting your points, but, so far alot of positive indicators point toward potential for good integration. 😉
 
Yabert - I have a question!

Back of March in 2019 you were fiddling with the wheel speed sensors, and had good luck with using all 4 on a single output shaft, but were going to experiment with 2 on each side:

Thanks guys for your inputs. I don't put each sensor on each wheel because the small part with 96 magnets in it is really dificulte to integrate.
Conclusion to come in few weeks.
I'm curious how your experimentation went? I'm doing an EV conversion using a 2019 Bolt as a donor, and I'm going to have to go down the same path as you did. :)
 
VW Vanagon T3 with Chevy Bolt drivetrain

Hi

I'm asking myself if DiyEcar is still the best place to put a build thread and to obtain help.
It was the case many years ago when the overvolted forklift motor was the rule, but now?

Well, my plan is to put a 200 hp 60 kWh Bolt drivetrain in a Westfalia... Exciting right?
Yes, but all the electronic and control in the Bolt fear me a bit.
Anyway, I will have the crached Bolt in few days and the West in few weeks.

Let me know if you have advice or help.
Thanks
may i talk to u about your conversion
 
That's what the forum is for. This isn't a place to look people up.

Offline discussions are nonproductive from the information giver's perspective.

You are also expected to give as well as receive. That could be as simple as a build log thread, or as involved as participating in discussions...in the open.
 
Discussion starter · #176 ·
100 000km done, since conversion (140 000 Km on the Chevy Bolt powertrain).
Is I had problems or repairs in 4 years? No, it's an EV, so it's super reliable... no, I just kidding.
Here the news:

-VW related
Ball joints: No body will be surprised to know I had to change lower and upper ball joints in front.
Windows seals: we tried to change window seals because we were tired to have all those water ingress. We end by changing only the hatch door and sliding door seals because installing those seals is such a pain. Looking at rust who progress each day around the windows is frustrating.
Brake: I had to change the discs brake pads on 4 wheels. Considering the amount of regen braking we use during driving (we rarely touch the brake pedal) I was surprised to find worn brake pads last year. I used the GM caliper in the rear and I bet the small pads are working hard to stop this big van. Maybe it's not unusual to change brake pads after 100 000 Km.
Wheel bearing: I had to change front wheels bearings.

-GM related
Battery: there were a recall on the traction batteries of all Chevy Bolt (LG Chem fault), so I asked GM to change my Bolt battery. After having propulse two EV on 104 000 Km, the original battery was swap for a new one last year. A 3 hours job for me and the pallet jack. I'll spare you the boring details, but thank you GM because I have now a bit more range.
Powertrain problem: This one is funny. After 3 years without a single problem with the van, I had to pull down on the highway 4 or 5 times because the van was working as an erratic manner. Really, during those events I was feeling like a real Vanagon driver. Stop on the side of the road, open the motor compartment, unplug/replug 12V battery, look at the Torque Pro app if there is fault to clear...
Well, each time I was able to restart the van and go home. Not a single towing. The van was working perfectly fine except during those events. I looked at many wires/connectors, CAN signals, I rebuild some grounds wires, I verified some wire jumpers in the CAN loop, but nothing was the cause.
Finally, after months, when I was stall on the side of the road with all the family in the middle of nowhere trying to restart the van, I remark something; The van finally restart after I had play with the ground wire near the ABS module... man! there is a Yaw sensor inside this ABS module and this one was stopping the van because it detect that it's upside down or something like that. In short, the Yaw sensor is there to stop the powertrain in case of crash/car upside down and it was near the position to detect this kind of event. I moved the ABS module and the Van restart without any failure since. After all those adventures I remember I had move the ABS module few months before.
Accident: There is cruise control coming with this powertrain and we use it a lot because it's so enjoyable. But the ABS/traction control doesn't work. After almost 4 winters without accident, my wife forget 1 time to stop the cruise control in a weather where rain was slowly transforming in snow and the rear of the van had slip on the highway. Everybody is fine and damages are low (front bumper and rear panels).
Battery back-up on 4 wheels: Our van (360Vdc battery) can now powered the house in 120/240Vac. I added an inverter and solar panels on our house. This inverter have a solar input of 120-450Vdc, so I build a small set up to disconnect the solar panels and connect the van in case we need more energy. It was specially useful last winter when we lost electricity during 5 days after a storm.

That it. The van rust well, umm I mean the van work well since 4 years now and we like it a lot. Sometime we are tired to drive a old van with all those specific characteristics: Wind noise, loose direction, rust everywhere, leaking window seal, doors not closing easily.
Yes, we look at all that and are tempted to buy the new VW ID buzz van, but each time we calculate how inexpensive is it to drive our old electric vanagon we think twice at the small annoyances.
 
Hey Yabert! Glad to see you back here, and happy to hear that all is well with the van!

I also wanted to express my gratitude for you to post this info - it was really an inspiration for me when I was planning my DeLorean EV conversion, and thanks to you my project is driving well now!

 
Hi Yabert!
Absolutely LOVE this project!
My question for you is about the solar inverter you used to connect your van to your house for power backup.
I've run some Vehicle to Home experiments with my Mitsubishi iMiEV electric car and a solar inverter. The issue with simply running a 360VDC battery pack in to the solar input on an inverter is the MPPT circuit. One way to check maximum power point is to SHORT the input, which is fine with solar panels, as they are current limited, but NOT with a car HV battery pack!

I'm trying to find the correct solar inverter I can use which will NOT do that!

Could you please share the brand/make/model of the solar inverter you used, and any other details about it? Thanks!
 
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