[remy_martian]

That's not enough space for a battery. I think you need to get the Hyper9 out of the engine bay.

 

[remy_martian]

This is where the Mitsubishi Highlander motor/drive may work ok.

 

[remy_martian]

You want as much of your pack against the firewall, not the front grill, or your car will turn like a cargo ship, not to mention an exaggerated weight and balance cg in the forward direction.

I suggest a small pack on the plane of the motor, then a larger one, that extends to the firewall, above it and the motor.

 

[remy_martian]

Yup - if you want to keep the original "3 point" mount, a frame/tray is an approach. Keep as much mass as you can tight to the firewall.

Also, the largest percentage of collisions, unplanned or otherwise, are at the front, so not using your batteries as front crush space reduces chances of lighting the battery off in a minor front hit.

 

[remy_martian]

Don't understand why you want to experience the equivalent if a 400lb passenger riding with you all the time.

If you're happy carrying that small of a pack, knock that top row off and put it over the motor as one single-level box. It'll lower the c.g. so it doesn't handle like a bread truck.

What you're doing with this latest layout is equivalent to jacking up the original engine on 250mm motor mount spacers, and shifting it to the passenger side of the compartment.

Then pile your other stuff, which you were going to bolt to the firewall, on top of that since it's all low mass components.

Your car spends 99.99% of its time with the hood closed, and an electric motor is as exciting as looking at the alternator on an ICE car. Maybe put Christmas lights on the battery box if you want EV bling when you open the hood 😛

EV's are alll about the driving experience...the kudos from others come from the passenger/driver seat, not when it's parked. Carrying over ICE biases to an EV conversion will cost you and make you miserable.

 

[remy_martian]

I'm enjoying having a second smartass on the forum...it got lonely at times 😂

 

[remy_martian]

What's on the firewall that's pushing the lower two boxes forward? I don't see anything in this pic:

Because the boxes say "priority", you need to get them against the firewall and pull everything else off, if possible...it looks maybe like some stuff got snuck onto the firewall after this photo was taken, or I'm missing something.

 

[remy_martian]

I.C.

Since you're an ICE guy and all, what about an upside down "V"...can you get them 2 across that way, lower the c.g., and make @joekitch jealous with the "V8 look"?

Darned steering columns are always in the way...

 

[remy_martian]

I'm not advocating it, but....

Wizard Fabrication I Steer Clear Offset Steering Coupler | 916-736-0110

 

[remy_martian]

Do the battery box right and you can put a set of fake flathead plates on the angled bits, or fake rocker covers.

The V16 lives...

 

[remy_martian]

Those are super spendy for fakes

 

[remy_martian]

Eight more D-cells wouldn't hurt, I suppose...

 

[remy_martian]

You're a slow learner, but seem to be starting to get it now...
😛

 

[remy_martian]

My welding teacher (yes, @Functional Artist, I'm not just book learned) told me to keep brake kleen off metal parts that are to be welded - his coworker died after a couple of days in the ICU from the phosphene gas that came off. He said to use acetone.

Not sure about carb and choke cleaner...

Of course, when I asked him for some acetone, he said it's not kept in the welding shop.

At that point I threatened to cut an acetylene cylinder open...I've clearly been watching too much Survivorman, lol.

 

[remy_martian]

You can always make the motor shaft a thou or two smaller...

 

[remy_martian]

Yes, they are big fans of that 600 degree hotplate shrink fit, but do they really expect the ID to grow that much? OD maybe, but ID?

With the motor spinning, it's a lathe, so yeah...a file will do the job nicely if needed in about 60 sec. if even that long (I'm counting miking it). Emery is more for getting a polish, imo.

 

[remy_martian]

I'm thinking a coupler bake at 350F alongside some oatmeal-raisin cookie dough gets two things accomplished.

 

[remy_martian]

Almost may be perfectly volumnuous for a Leaf drive unit from the looks of it 🤓

 

[remy_martian]

The input shaft is not turning relative to the coupler, so you don't need a bearing there anymore. Just a bushing for alignment.

Brass is easiest to machine, but your choice there.

 

[remy_martian]

What slop? A bushing is being machined...