[russatt]

Thanks Brian!

The only thing I notice that may be slightly different than what you stated is that I don't think my pump is running at full power when powered without CAN. It's identical to the one in the video, but sounds more like that one does at half power or less.

The EPS is on the high speed CAN, so either 250 or 500kbps depending on the year (I don't remember what year mine is from)

I'm working on an Ardiuno Uno with a CANBUS shield (still need to order the shield). I'm going to connect it up after I finish it and try sending different speed and RPM messages to see if I can affect the pump RPM.

I also saw a reference somewhere that said the Volvo pump is connected using LIN, which goes against everything else I've read.

Mine is missing the 3 pin plug, which I want to remedy before hooking anything else to it. It appears that the plug (part# 30658215 for just the housing) was used on many other Volvos for various things from 1999 to present. One specific application is the boost sensor on T6 V60s, which they happen to have at my local Pick N Pull.

Hi

I have Volvo PS Pump for my conversion. Please let me know if you have any success with the Arduino CANBUS. Have you tried driving with the pump in backup mode.

 

[HPEVS]

Thanks Brian!

The only thing I notice that may be slightly different than what you stated is that I don't think my pump is running at full power when powered without CAN. It's identical to the one in the video, but sounds more like that one does at half power or less.

The EPS is on the high speed CAN, so either 250 or 500kbps depending on the year (I don't remember what year mine is from)

I'm working on an Ardiuno Uno with a CANBUS shield (still need to order the shield). I'm going to connect it up after I finish it and try sending different speed and RPM messages to see if I can affect the pump RPM.

I also saw a reference somewhere that said the Volvo pump is connected using LIN, which goes against everything else I've read.

Mine is missing the 3 pin plug, which I want to remedy before hooking anything else to it. It appears that the plug (part# 30658215 for just the housing) was used on many other Volvos for various things from 1999 to present. One specific application is the boost sensor on T6 V60s, which they happen to have at my local Pick N Pull.

Do you happen to have the PID and byte structure for the Volvo?

 

[UnknownPrimate]

Do you happen to have the PID and byte structure for the Volvo?

Sorry, I missed your reply for some reason. I haven't had time to mess with it until now, so now I'm going over the CAN info trying to figure out my arse from my elbows...

Here's a topic on the Volvo forum discussing the messages. From the discussion, it appears that post #12 is an example of the ECU broadcast.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?171294-CANBUS-messages-index-available

RPM and speed is easy, in my 2004 V70R:

0x12177FC 01 02 40 00 10 40 3A B8 //speed: B6 b0-b1 – B7 b0-b7, divide by 4, 174km/h

0x2A07428 0B 0D C4 0E 0F FD 2F 17 //revs: B6 b0-b3 - B7 b0-b7, 3863 per minute

 

[wrsexton]

Any update on the Arduino can solution? I'm putting a 5.0 Coyote engine (no provision for power steering pump) in a 2005 Mustang GT and I have one of these pumps to use.

 

[russatt]

Any update on the Arduino can solution? I'm putting a 5.0 Coyote engine (no provision for power steering pump) in a 2005 Mustang GT and I have one of these pumps to use.

Hi I have completed all of the hydraulic modifications of the pump to fit my donor vehicle. Alfa 156. I am running the pump in "backup mode" and the steering feels great. No canbus integration. It starts up at full power, and then slowly rev's down to what might be about 70-80% power. With no load on the steering it draws only 6 amps, and when I turn the steering wheel, with the car stationery, it draws about 20-25 amps. Only when the steering gets to full lock and you keep pressure on the steering wheel, you can hear the motor revs drop as there is probably no circulation of fluid does the pump draw 70-75amps of current.

So for now I am quite happy with its performance. I haven't driven faster than 40km/h so I don't know what the steering will feel like at highway speed. I am busy building battery boxes, so will do a faster road test soon. If the steering feels good I will leave it with no can bus. The Alfa's original pump ran off a pulley so would have had no electronic control over how fast the steering wheel is being turned, or the vehicle speed. You could be driving slow at high revs, or fast at low revs.

 

[wrsexton]

Thank you. For clarification, I probably should mention my pump is from a 2005 Volvo S40. It's clearly marked FOMOCO on the side, and is the same pump used in Ford Focus and Escape hybrids. The TRW model is JER153

Like your Alfa, my Mustang had an engine driven pump, with no variable input. Friends with newer Mustangs with the epas steering rack have a knob they can play with to vary feel, plus the system is speed related, so I feel a little jealous.

I did find this article to be informative, but I'm not electrically savvy enough to try it (yet!). It might be useful to those considering the arduino, as this appears to be a simpler solution to actually having to program a device. This appears to simply have two potentiometers (pots) that you can set thresholds with, and you still have speed sensitive steering.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=111532

I also found this Arduino adapter information, for those who want to experiment with this (and then sell me one)

http://arduinodev.com/hardware/obd-kit/

 

[ABB]

Has anyone had any luck using the CAN bus with this pump?
I would like to use one on a sail boat for the auto pilot when sailing. ( every watt counts)
Minimum speed until the autopilot opens the solenoid. The power function ( gray / blue stripe) wire could be used if the pump didn't delay for 2.5 seconds.

 

[neuweiler]

I'd also be strongly interested in the CAN messages or at least ID's of the pump. I installed a JER161 and it works in emergency mode. The downside: it's noisy.. the noisiest part of my car. So reducing RPM via would certainly be helpful. I tried to get info from TRW but they're blocking - no OEM, no support, not even a simple CAN matrix which would help already a lot.
I do see some messages sent by the pump but it does not react on anything I've sent so far. Unfortunately the guy at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFH1XMlEj4Y is completely unresponsive too.
The pump works ok, but at the moment I don't recommend it... only as an emergency solution.

 

[neuweiler]

A new find: check out this video
Apparently Fenix Electronics produces two devices which test electronic power steering pumps: a sophisticated Autotester for $600.- upwards and a simple box which just sends CAN commands (as seen in the video above) for $170.- . The one for Ford Focus CMAX looks very simmilar to the TRW JER 161 I use but has one plug more. I'm going to check with them if it'd also work. Then we could grab the CAN messages.
On this video you see how they change the steering wheel speed and the pump immediately reacts.

Does someone have access to such a device?

 

[wrsexton]

I'm still interested in an active or passive (rheostat) assist control. I've been driving my Mustang for 2 years in the non can connected limp home mode. Works fine at anything above 3 or 4 mph, but not enough boost when parking. Any thoughts guys? It's a great pump, doesn't make any more noise than my fuel pump, and steering feel is great, especially at high speeds.

 

[4X411]

I have a pump from a 2005 Volvo 50 series that i am planning on using on a mud race truck. Any one figure out how to take control of this unit, what type of signals does the can bus use, voltage, amperage, frequency? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[BigKriss]

Good day All.
I am retrofitting a Ford Kuga pump to my vehicle and stumbled upon this absolute wealth of information here.
The pump is identical as used on the Volvo that is being discussed here and I simply had to register and thank everyone here for the info.
I have been searching for the last week and a half for any info.

I shall definitely update my findings as I go along with the retrofit process.

 

[adrianm]

I know this is an old thread but hopefully this will help someone who can filter out the correct codes. Attached is a CSV and Wireshark PCAP file for all the CAN messages I captured from my Volvo C30 before stripping it. I ran the steering from side to several times and drove up to about 20mph so there should be some data in there to help. I was going to do it myself for my new race car but I decided to go with electric steering in the end as it has some advantages for me but not so much for the uses here.

 

[Thaniel]

I know this is an old thread but hopefully this will help someone who can filter out the correct codes. Attached is a CSV and Wireshark PCAP file for all the CAN messages I captured from my Volvo C30 before stripping it. I ran the steering from side to several times and drove up to about 20mph so there should be some data in there to help. I was going to do it myself for my new race car but I decided to go with electric steering in the end as it has some advantages for me but not so much for the uses here.

Nice to have a data stream. Great when people share.



I looked at the data There are 22 different ARBID's


0340412e
0100082c
0110483c
0300410e
19000026
01c04026
02000026
02104136
02804026
02c00020
00800006
0090411e
03800006
19a00002
19e00006
1b200002
1b600002
1b700030
1ba0493c
1a200020
1ae0092c
1be0493c


I'm not looked at Volvo stuff before so no idea what ID goes with which computer. (And I don't have the powersteering. I just find CAN interesting)



More information about the data stream could help. Was the engine running or off when the stream starts? What time does it start? What time does it it start driving etc... Having something to match the data too gives a piece of the puzzle. To identify what ID is what I find it easiest to listen to each module individually or remove one from the BUS and see which messages go away. Baring any inside information from the factory

 

[adrianm]

The engine was running the whole time. I can't remember when I started driving it as it was a year ago that I made the file. Pretty sure the order was, start car, start recording, turn steering through full range then start driving. First part would have been a hard right then a straight with increasing speed followed by a complete loop, back down the straight, hard left and then turn off.

The Volvo VIDA system does give the identifiers for each computer in the car which would narrow it down but the version I have is missing that information. It's under Software/Advanced.

I did narrow it down to three or four IDs by looking at which had the most changes but never got any further than that. The plan was to connect up the Arduino CAN shield I have and just send all the messages to the pump with a short delay between each one. If it responded then I would know that was the area to look at.

I found that the default mode of the pump with no CAN input defaults to the PAS level for approximately 40mph which would probably be fine for most people but not for my use.

 

[iDrive]

I signed up to comment in this thread. I'm using the same JER Volvo pump in my Civic Hatchback (I cant use a regular pump) and I'm stuck on how to control it.

I've seen the YouTube videos of it being hacked, but that company isn't selling the controller anymore. I really don't want to be limited to 75% pump RPM. At least if we could get it to run flat out that would be helpful.

Is anyone here capable of sniffing the CAN protocol to the pump and developing a control module of sorts? That's really where we're at I think. I have a friend who's much more savvy in with home brew stuff like this, but he would still need access to a Volvo with EHPS. If there was anyone in NW Arkansas who is willing to help out, I might be able to tackle it.

Thanks!

 

[adrianm]

I signed up to comment in this thread. I'm using the same JER Volvo pump in my Civic Hatchback (I cant use a regular pump) and I'm stuck on how to control it.

I've seen the YouTube videos of it being hacked, but that company isn't selling the controller anymore. I really don't want to be limited to 75% pump RPM. At least if we could get it to run flat out that would be helpful.

Is anyone here capable of sniffing the CAN protocol to the pump and developing a control module of sorts? That's really where we're at I think. I have a friend who's much more savvy in with home brew stuff like this, but he would still need access to a Volvo with EHPS. If there was anyone in NW Arkansas who is willing to help out, I might be able to tackle it.

Thanks!

See my posts (the last few in the thread). I've attached a complete CAN sniff of the messages but I don't know enough to break them down further. I explained how I was going to proceed before changing my mind in the last post I made before this one.

 

[iDrive]

Yes sir, that was immensely helpful and I had planned to do exactly as you mentioned as well.

I'll pick up that Arduino and see what I can accomplish.

Thank you.

 

[iDrive]

Do you remember which ID's you narrowed it down between?

I am working on the data stream now.

 

[iDrive]

Some of the ID's have had thousands of commands sent to them. Others a few hundred, and some 0-100 times.

What's interesting is the order. Some of those devices don't receive CAN data for 8.5 seconds into the datalog, where others receive immediate data.

Since the pump defaults to fail safe mode in a few seconds, I'm expecting the pump to receive CAN data fairly quickly.

I still have no idea which one it is. I'm still putting together my Arduino and getting code written.

Any help appreciated. I'm almost there. Once I get the pump controlled I'll post exactly how I've done it.


EDIT: I have attached the new data set. I deleted duplicate ID's with identical commands (this removed over half the samples), I then grouped the data by device ID and kept the order in which they appear. No other changes have been made.


This is my progress as of 12/4/19. Next step for me is to get my Arduino assembled and functional.


Thank you to everyone who's contributed so far over the years, I hope I can make this happen for us all.